Vertical-Life
Soft "7c" onsight // ethics
be honest with yourself - whether its your first OS or not shouldnt have a bearing on the grade. Maybe u just did your first 7a+ os, given that you have 7a and have climbed 7c this doesnt seem at all weird. Lots of ppl log and "claim" the grade while putting comments its 2 3 grades softer which always bugged me :) its great that you are trying to be ethical about it. How did the line compare to other 7a+ you have done? Are you in a great shape now? , did you have a strong day? , were the conditions great? does the route have "optional" betas (bypass of cruxes if you traverse, eliminates, morpho moves where tall ppl skip hard holds, etc)? Is the area/crag in general have wrong grades, is the setter known to grade soft or sandbagged? Is the line super new (thinking of Noufaro in Kalymnos where most lines are ~3 to 4 grades easier than what they were originally set as)?. All those questions should be considered - then go for it. Another one is - if you climb with people marginally stronger or weaker than you - how would they have done? has anyone you know tried it? how would they answer the above?
thanks a lot for your reply! It helped me a lot to take everything in consideration and confirmed my gut feeling!
yeah for me the grading of the First Ascentionist is just a proposal (which is difficult) and 8a.nu should be a platform to get more opinions about the 'real' grade. The more opinions the more accurate - that's it! It bothers me, too if people grade by their ego
Indeed! I know of some routes initially set as 8b but now they are commonly climbed with a differnet beta and so the consensus is 8a. It still says 8b here however and so that appears in many peoples profiles... you know - if you take the "extra mile" to write its an 8a in the comments why wouldn't you also click TWICE on the grade scale ;) hahah in any case - congrats on your send!
hey there,
I have an ethical question of logging a route I did on saturday.
I choose a 7c route to put some effort in near my actual limit (climbed 4 x 7c, never harder). The 7c's and also 7b's take me usually more than 1 day of projecting.
In the end I onsighted the 7c which I am 200% sure of that it is no 7c. Six out of 7 people graded the route here '7c soft' and 1 guy even said it could be 7b. On that day another guy onsighted it and said: "I've climbed harder 7b's"
For me it feels wrong to downgrade the route from 7c to 7a+ but it also feels wrong to skip the onsight grade of 7a+ (I've done 4x 7a onsight). If I log the route as 7b it would be the best achievement here for me and it also doesn't feel like that
I would be really happy to have some feedback here!
Cheers,
Daniel