Open forum

search for extreme lines and brico-sika

The search for extreme climbing lines often has to account the limits of the climber working on the project: chipping and sika are the tools...but what about new limits and ethics? Manolo is working on Terlago cliff (Italy, Alto Sarca), on the left side of Thin Ice (8c, Favresse), spreading sika spots on the wall...
wow EDIT Jens, why don't you run an investigation about such?
not knowing that crag, talking in general terms. what to do with a big flake that sounds "hollow", moves a bit, but you can't pull off by hand? Break it artificially with hammer and levers, or glue it artificially with sika, or leave it as it is and wait for someone to pull the flake in his own face? Or even, not bolt there at all because the rock isn't good enough?
If I bolt a route next to a such a flake - and it is really that hollow that you have to be afraid thati it pulls of in the near future I tend to help a bit with the hammer - maybe not the finest thing to do to the rock, but actually better then letting it be pulled of by someone who may be injured by it...
Jens Larssen
โ€ข
What about this poll? Is it OK to use Sika (glue) in Climbing? ( polls )
all the brico-sikas at Terlago cliff have been removed