Which rotatorcuff muscle is most important to train when climbing? is it the inward rotators (subscapularis) or the outward rotators (infraspinatus, teres minor)?
Hi Rickard
Please avoid to train only those shoulder-muscles, which are mainly used for climbing. Since I never did any other form of training than just to climb for about 12 years, I now have bigger problems with my shoulder. Imbalance lead to impinchment, which doesn't allow me to climb hard anymore!
Anyway, for answering your question: the inward rotators are mainly used when we are climbing.
Take care of your shoulder - it's not fun!
Adi
So... if the inward rotators (pectoralis, latissimus dorsi, subscapularis) are used in climbing, it must be the outward rotators (teres minor, infraspinatus) that needs the extra training so that imbalance doesn't occur... Am I right?
yep, you are right... you shoud ALLWAYS train your antoganists too - not just in your shoulder. if you work your biceps, work your trizeps too. if you work stomach, work your underback too... upperback is also quite important to balance too....and so on...
so even if you do not weight training in a gym - you shoud go (at least during your trainingperiod) - for some weight training to train (at least) your antoganists as you train your others while you are climbing... - its a great protection against bigger problems and it makes you stronger as well.
and hopefully we will see adi climbing again, as he did it for the last 12years!
greez martin
Rotatorcuff training