Review of "Sport Climbing" by Andrew Bisharat

About a month ago I criticized Jens for his short mentioning of Andrew Bisharats book, and specifically I found it strange to assign a climbing grade to it. I was criticized for doing this :-) In the meantime I have bought the book and read it, and I thought I would write my own review. Here it is. I hope it will be useful for some: Review of Andrew Bisharats ”Sport Climbing From Top Rope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Succes” Andrew Bisharat is the senior editor of Rock and Ice magazine and as such a well known writer in the climbing world. However, it is the first time he has published a book. The title, “Sport Climbing” with the subtitle “From Top Rope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success”, is quite precise. There is no mentioning of cams and wedges, building anchors etc in this book. Specifically, I would call it a book on single-pitch sport climbing, as there is almost no mention of multi-pitch sport climbing. It is aiming solely at sport climbing, and specifically how to make the transition from top-roping in a gym to succeeding with sport climbing on rock. It is clear that the book is aiming on absolute beginners – typically someone who has climbed a few times in a gym and thinks about trying to climb outdoors. This focus on absolute beginners is clear when you read the first few chapters. There are detailed – and very good descriptions – of how to tie a figure-eight, what the different parts of a harness are called, a discussion of how to rack your quickdraws on your harness (“Should the gate face in or out?”) and even detailed discussions and descriptions on different techniques for clipping the rope. The value for more experienced climbers is to be found in the last few chapters. There are chapters describing advanced ropework techniques for leading and cleaning pitches – including how to use a stick-clip, not only for the first few bolts, but also how to safely “call up the stick” from high on the climb. I found the chapters on onsight- and redpoint-techniques inspiring and I think even advanced climbers could benefit from reading these chapters. So, what could be better? All of the photos in the book – including “action”-photos from all over the world, as well as photos showing equipment and various techniques, are in black and white. I think especially the action photos deserved to be in colour. In my opinion, the descriptions are a bit lengthy. I think the book would have benefitted from a shorter and more concise style. There is no mention of training at all. The focus in the book on hard redpoints is centered on techniques, not on the training – physically and mentally - that could also play a large role in succeeding on a climb close to ones personal limit. The book is 255 pages and in paperback format. It costs 21.95 US dollars. Overall rating: I give it 4 quickdraws out of five