During a discussion on the Swedish 8a site it has become clear that Mr 8a Jens Larssen considers that the existing data not enough to prove climbing hard and especially crimping by young climbers (kids and youth) is not causing any increased risk for injuries. He is therefore promoting that kids and youth should use crimps and climb hard from the start, where there is clear medical proof that this is increasing the risk for arthritis and injuries like this : http://bjsm.bmj.com/content/41/12/852/F2.large.jpg Do you think that Mr8a has the right pre conditions to make these assumption? Do you think it is right of Mr8a to risk the future of young climbers? Who do you believe more, Mr8a or medical professionals? The contested material published is: http://bjsm.bmj.com/content/41/12/852.full ( http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16225880 , http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21576719 , http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1724320/pdf/v035p00181.pdf and http://libris.kb.se/bib/9977029
I have never said anything even close to what you suggest. On the contrary, I do not think kids should train hard especially crimping. I have been a junior coach for several years and nobody of the guys did get any serious injury. It is sad when people like Nisse makes such big misunderstanding. What is correct is that I am looking for more info regarding juniors and injuries. I have trained several juniors for several years and there was no serious finger injury. It would also be interested to see what IFSC think about that as they have been running international junior comps for several years and that they lately have started to promote boulder comps.
"I have never said anything even close to what you suggest. On the contrary, I do not think kids should train hard especially crimping. I have been a junior coach for several years and nobody of the guys did get any serious injury."
This is a pure lie from Jens side!
"Lagom doser av krimp frรฅn fรถrsta bรถrjan รคr vad jag rekommenderar."
He has clearly stated that it is preferred that you start training crimps "just enough" (the Swedish word Lagom is hard to translate)from the beginning to get strong and used to it, totally disregarding the risk and medical proofs.
I am afraid that your accusations is based on misunderstandings. My recommendation was based on a discussion regarding that some trainers say that crimping should be totally avoided by juniors. What I meant, which you have misunderstood is that you should use any gripping technique that comes natural to you, meaning that it is OK to also crimp when it comes natural. If you never crimp, I think you will have a greater chance of getting a injury once you come to a crimper in a competition or on rock. I have never said that you should train crimp but it should not be avoided when it comes natural.
Scientific studies > anecdotal evidence ... science vs magic ... it does actually still sometimes amaze me how many people believe what they believe contrary to much solid scientific research. Case in point, the training/exercise supplement business thrives on it ... edit: spelling
Mr 8a considers established sports medicine as non proven