Open forum

Millet vs realization

Yesterday(24/5) Silvain Millet from Gap killed Sharma's Realization 9a+ at Cรฉuse
he sent it?
Dario Rota
โ€ข
Is there any link available for the news??
Erik Assum
โ€ข
http://alpesmountain.free.fr/ceuze/news.php
I confirm you that this new is true. He did the routes monday. Sylvain is, in my opinion, one of the best climbers in the world which combine technical, pleasure and spirit. Congratulation Sylvain
Does anybody know something about the comment of S.Millet concerning the grade of 9a+? Did he confirm it?
Greg Hart
โ€ข
I cant read french but apparently he felt that both biographie and the realization extension should lose their plus signs! The downgrading has a lot of Americans up in arms (pages of discussion on rockclimbing.com) which is a bit silly seeing as sharma didnt officially grade the thing in the first place. Downgrading of a nonexistent (media invented) grade! What next? Its all good tho, grading is completely subjective and personal (different body types different routes different conditions etc...) Cudos to Millet, magnifique!!!
grigri say : biographie and the realization extension: It doesn't exist the ''realization extension'', it's the same route that Biographie, which was made by J.C Lafaille.
Who killed it! I think it is great loss that someone is killing such one fine route. Killing is breaking holds I think?
i think its Arnand Petit who cut the route in two parts to make the first part...
After sending the route Silvain released an interview where everything about the route gets clarified. You can find it here: FreakClimbing.com
Greg Hart
โ€ข
My apologies Thierry, that should read: Biographie extension / Realization. You can chose which name you prefer.
@grigri There is no "extension" of Biographie. Realization is just another name for the original complete line, which would be in French "l'intรฉgrale" of Biographie. The confusion comes from the intermediate belay, which was added after the original route was set, and by another guy. As for the grade, there is a video on youtube were Millet climbs Biographie and gives 9a+ as a suggestion. His words are: "on parle d'un possible 9a+", which translates into "it is said to be potentially 9a+". So he doesn't confirm the grade, nor does he "downgrade" it to 9a. When he talks about the first section, he says 8c+, but he might have suggested otherwise in another interview ! (same goes for the 9a/9a+ discussion).
John Meget
โ€ข
Interesting to ask the other climbers who have sent the route, what grade they feel it is.  fwiw, Graham and Ramon counted it as 9a+ on their 8a scorecard.  So did Patxi, though he called it 9a, 9a+ in the name itself.