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Open forum

Is Mr. 8a really becoming mr. 9a?

Hello everybody. This post is not to be intended as a controversy. I do really estimate Dani Andrada and I would really like to be able to climb less than a half of the routes he has done, but reading about his last six weeks' performances I feel a bit confused. How is it possible to climb constantly at such a level? In comparison to other disciplines, what Dani claims to have done would correspond to winning the olympic games, the world championships, the world cup, the european (or whatsoever) championships and even the neighborhood challenge in a few weeks. I do not have any doubt that Dani really believes that the grades he proposes for his new routes are correct, but what I wonder is whether he's loosing the focus on grades or so. I hope this is not the case because it would mean that 9b and 9b+ are about to become well established grades, but I'm curious to see what the repetitors will think about these new routes. Cheers.
Maybe some of his routes are not that hard as he supposes! Take "Selecio natural 9a" for example! He graded it 9a and it's been firstly repeated by R. Puigblanque! He just graded it 8c+. Do you think Dani overestimates his power sometimes? I mean, don't get me wrong! He is one of the best climbers at the present day, maybe the best, if you believe his ascents registered on his scoreboard. But as you already asked: How is it possible to climb such hard routes in this time. Other people spend all of their life sending on 9a or just half of the routes Dani registers in 2 months.
I think not only Dani Andrada is loosing the focus on grades but many others too. I do respect Dani a lot, not because he's strong, but because of his way of life. But what he did last month is just physically not possible. Look for yourself : three 9a, one 9a+ and one 9a+/9b. He haven't not yet la Rambla ext. and why not Chilam Balam? So is electro stimulation working so well in Spain? Look like yes for Ramon Julian and Edu Martin. Or are the routes a little overgraded? I don't have the answer. Anyway I'm still very impressed by Dani, but he should maybe think back about the grades of his routes. The repetitors will tell us what do they think. Dani give me half of your power...
I was thinking the same thing and would have jumped in to say, i doubt they really stand at the grade. but look at recent news, dave graham doing 14d, consider solid for the grade for a over a decade in 3 tries and thinks might be 14c. so maybe puigblanque is just really strong for the route he did. so far he hasn't repeated anything else there and he has done 15a before. so i think we'll get a little bit better of and idea as he tries to or does repeat some other routes their. also, look at sharma, witness the fitness when fast too, and thats seems to be called v15 even tho he didn't claim it. i think we need to wait for repeats to really get an answer and see if dani climbs some establish routes. all his ascents are FA, which make it hard to know if they are real for the grade or not.
i think it is not impossible for Andrada to do all these routes.You must remember there is a lot of connexion and there is easyer (when you have the power for, and he have!)to redpointing rapidly the routes;He is fucking strong!You must see about OSP(slovenia) a lot of new redpointing seems to be link up and extention.You must understand that FA is harder than redpointing a routes whith a lot of chalk.Congratulations DANI and good luck for the future repetitors!I AM SORRY MY ENGLISH IS VERY VERY BAD( i am french guy). H ave a good day . CHRISTOPHE ZEHANI
isn't impossible for him to do all those routes in one month, climbing isn't all physical in the best scenario we climb using 70% of our physical capabilities, if he is in good shape, and a good shape if well programed could be mantained for 1 ou two months he could do this easly he lives there, he opened the routes he knows them very well, and he climbs rock almost every day, one month isn't few time. about the grade in spain, just look at the damage made by ramon and edu at Gorges du Loup, france where he did all the hard routes, or biographie did by patxi usobiaga or the 8b+ OS he did last year. there are lots of other names like Josune bereciartu, Iker Pou, edu marin... people should stop mistifying climbing in spain, its true that some routes are overgrade at some areas, but the same hapends every where. all the hardest routes in spain are still waiting for forgainers to climb them, Rambla;all the 9a's at Pays basque, Orujo 9a+ since the 90's, Chilan balam... a bit more of respect for the spanish climbers im not spanish fred
Dear Fred, I' would like to underline that I have absolutely nothing against Dani Andrada or the spanish climbers. Or against any other climber of any other region. I just wanted to stimulate a discussion over a topic which I consider important because it involves constatations that must be valid in general. I do know that the spanish level is damn' high, but even if it's true that (in this case) many of Dani's hardest routes in Spain are unrepeated, it's at the same time true that Dani didn't repeat any other reference routes in the rest of Europe (Action Directe, Biographie etc.). There's no malice in this. Only some unanswered questions.
Andrada's performances are almoust incredible, and I think a lot of climbers (me too) consider spanish route overgraded. But we REALLY HAVE TO WAIT until some repetitions arrive. Finally, remember that recently Andrada repeated Biographie (8c+) a french testpiece.
Yes, he repeated the 8c+, but not yet the 9a+. Remember that the 8c+ took only one day to Ramon, who didn't make the "9a+" version probably because he si too short.