i am used to climb on rocks with lots of grip, and yesterday tried to climb indoor, i am slipping a lot, because the holds are very slippery, to me.. even a crimp that i am never used to slip from that position, slipped! maybe the normal chalk does not work well indoors? is liquid chalk better? and my hands sweat faster... not dry like outside in the wind that keeps them dry.. so is this all normal? or there is a way to improve the situation? thanks
In general I would say that it is not as important to be as strong outdoors due to the friction. Even a pretty weak climber can climb relatively good due to good technique using the friction. Climbing on slippery holds indoors it is often about being so strong so you can keep the crimping angle. To slip from a crimp is very unusual. You can lock the crimp with the thumb. Any other takers on the difficult question?
In order to avoid joint injures, I would recommend not to crimp while training at all. The training should be done with open hand and will give you enough strength to crimp outdoors on real climbing.
THE LAPIS BOARยS HAIR BRUSH IS A LEGEND* as far as chalk-removing instruments go. Made in Europe, Lapis brushes are difficult to find here in the States, but more than a few specialty climbing shops are ยcoreย enough to carry them. I know some climbers who, when they find Lapis brushes for sale, snatch ยem up like a bunch of rats, which is crazy considering one brush costs as much as shepherdsย pie at an Irish pub. I picked one up recently at the excellent and historic Wilsonยs Eastside Sports in Bishop**. In general, boarยs hair brushes are amazing. I donยt know why, but boarยs hair has the power to take chalk off holds the way Bon Joviยs 1980s hair takes bras and pants off women. Boarยs hair is soft, and doesnยt erode the rock, especially sandstone, the way stiffer brushes do. Its swinish molecular structure is particularly suited to lifting chalk off slopers and leaving the natural friction and texture of the stone. The Lapis brush is wide and long and does a better, cleaner job in fewer swipes, though it doesnยt fit as well into tiny pockets. Also note that this is not the ideal tool for scrubbing mud, lichen or scum. Unfortunately, this Ferrari of brushes is built with a stiff, unforgiving plastic handle. Within a week of using the Lapis brush, I was merrily dusting winter grime off a sun-bathed crimpy slab when, SNAP! Iยd snapped the brush head at its thin, brittle neck like a twig, and by the time the brush head, still with its fresh plume of boarยs hair, tumbled down the 100-foot wall, the legend had already died.
How to improve the grip while climbing indoor?