How to Build up to be able to train like patxi

I hope your injury is nothing too serious. That said a)be careful about your shoulder and ask a specialist (a physiotherapist maybe?)  it is counter-intuitive, but the younger you hurt shoulders, the more chance you have of having chronic instability (=you keep dislocating for dumb reasons and should have MANDATORY surgery) b)remember to train balanced. shoulders, but also elbows, demand specific injury-preventing exercises for some muscles. I have an history of shoulder injuries, and just to keep climbing at my current level I need to dedicate 30% of my training time to them (and I'm younger than 30!). Google "shoulder external rotators theraband" for some examples. For shoulders expecially, it is a good idea to ask a physiotherapist what exercises you should do and how to perform them, correct execution is not trivial. c)Not all bodies are the same, not everyone can stand that much work without injury. Some have genetically superior tendons, ligaments, joints, etc...I's a fact, accept it. d)Those people you take as an example dedicate all their time to that. Their diet and rest activities are shaped on the training regime they follow. Plus, they have trainers and maybe sports doctors that follow them and know how much is too much, what to do to recover at best, etc... e)Even the very best DO injury, simply because they push the machine at its limits. For shoulders : eiter, pringle, webb parsons, etc.... f) I've heard stuff and read blogs about those WC pro's doing full-day training with thousands of moves 5 days a week. Every time it came with some lines explaining that it is only a phase of the yearly schedule and that it is not high-intensity climbing. Or, do you remember that dosage where DG explained his climbing hysteria in Ticino? "Hard days and easy days, where the easy days are you rest days"

Honestly, in terms of training, climbing for 4-6 six hours is probably a waste of time. For getting yourself BETTER at climbing, its a good way to go. But not for trying to develop strength or power.. which is what I assume your going for with hard bouldering. Also, how hard do you climb? Your relative strength and training fitness will determine how many training sessions you need to disrupt your homeostatic balance, and necessitate a rest.

Climbing and training hours is normally a slow press in order to avoid injury and further more you should climb/train easy to build a base.  If you climb easy, you should be able to climb 10 days in a road. If you climb super hard you should have one rest day after every session. Good luck! One reason for shoulder injuries can be that you have done to many dyno moves on big jugs.

ok thanks for the tips guys i think i have my new plan all sorted out. do you have any suggestions on how much time span to train for before adding more time? like start at 2 hrs a day then add one hr after a month or 2?

I would not say time is the crucial factor but how hard you should train. As soon as you start performing like 80 % of your maximum, you need to rest and you should not continue that session.

Get yourself Training for Climbing and Conditioning for Climbing , both by Eric Horst. There are great schedules, exercises and reccomendations for all skill levels.

Sounds like your really motivated which is crucial to get strong. But the last thing you want is to heal your shoulder and then get a different injury somewhere else. Its a gutter I’ve done it. Structure your training: What do you want to achieve, what skills strengths do you need to achieve this. Assess yourself and identify your weaknesses Design a training program to address your weaknesses and maintain your strengths. Give yourself a time frame and stick to the training. 4-12 weeks if everything’s gone well (you’ve picked the correct training and Recovery method) you should have seen measurable one grade improvement in the targeted disciplines. Really good books to read which should be able to help you out are: Training for climbing, Eric Horst (I think one of your other replies has also mentions it). Enhancing Recovery, Michael Kellman. Periodization training for sports, Bompa & Carrera Also loads of good stuff if you look with Google scholar. Good luck and I hope you stay injury free and get stronger!

I suggest the opposite to structured climbing. Just climb for fun and climb whatever you feel like. This is how Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra have been the best :-) A structured approach may kill your inspiration.

That´s ridiculous. Different people find inspiration from different things. Very many people enjoy a lot of the actual training being it very or a little structured. With or without a coach. Indoors or outdoors. Crosstraining or only climbing. Etc etc. Variables are sooo many to make it interesting. Nothing works well without motivation and people find it in different sources. I myself love planning and executing quite loose framed programs while somebody else might want an exact plan for every minute of his/hers workout. Then again someone else does everything totally intuitively. Don´t generalize things and what people should feel like. Someone elses candy is someone elses crap.

Yes too structured training may kill your psyche, but maybe so will climbing 7b for the rest of your life. You have to realize that Sharma spends most days (prob 5day a week) climbing on 8c-9b routes, so of course you could get stronger that way, but I take it you're still at school and can't climb 5days a week on hard rock. Here is what I did when I got a shoulder injury a year back: I didn't sit still for 6months, surfing, damaging my shoulder even more, resting is also training. So I got back after a year and started training on a 10deg wall on small holds... boring as hell, but good stability training for your shoulder. Listen to your body, don't chase goals blindly. If your shoulder doesn't heal properly you won't be able to climb Jack... So build a stong stable base from where you can train AS MUCH AS YOU HEART DESIRES. A last word of my personal belief: Follow your psyche and listen to your body, what applies to others might not to you... If Jens says training might kill climbing for him, that is his personal mental limitations/block. But you can ignore all of this advice and just LISTEN TO YOURSELF... Much Psyche