Hi all,
It seems Dai Koyamada is sending some hardest boulder problems in Grampians, Australia. I am happy to translate some updates shown on the internet site of PUMP who runs climbing gyms here in Japan for you to see what this guy is doing in a country of Kangaroos. It is an additional info to the good summary by J. Zeidelhack.
(FYI, I am just an ex-serious-climber-who-is-now-more-surfer who used to climed in some european crags like Frankenjura as well as in Arapiles and knows Grampians is one of the most beautiful places!)
I hope Dai and/or his friends will report moe fully later on.
12th April
V10 n/a flash
V10 n/a 2nd try
13th
V12 Sleepy Hollow 2nd try
V12 Cave Bitch 2nd try
15th
V11 Dead Can't Dance
V12 The Amazing Sounds of a She Male Squealing
V13 Sleepy Hollow{Cave Man
V14 Under Siege 4th try
16th
V13 Cave Rave 4th try
V14 Eve Rave
18th
V13 Foce Entry (?) 4th try 2nd ascent
V13/14 Xtream cool + amazing 1st ascent
V14 Pretty Hate Machine 4th try 2nd ascent
Recent
V16? Sleepy Hollow + Cave Rave
Cheers,
Go
I totally agree with you. It was obvoiusly a translation and the figure was shown on the website as an expected range of grade mentioned by some climbers. It is nothing more than that. We should of course rely on what the climber proposes now. Rgds,
he graded the sleepy hollow + cave rave porblem 8C, but there is also a v9 to be linked into the start of this new problem, and a harder exit can be taken, possibly creating an 8C+. the whole cave linkup would be as follows - X-treme Cool V9 + Sleepy Hollow V12/13 ( Which linked creates Under Siege V14 30+ moves) + Cave Man V9 + Dead Can't Dance V11 easier exit, V12 harder exit (which linked creates Cave Rave V13 [using easier exit] and Eve Reve V14 [using harder exit] with also 30+ moves) Phew! so thats over 60 moves, entirely horizontal. V14 into a V14 could possibly create an 8C+....we'll just have to wait
what would you know, come check this problem out before you comment on the grade, He's Japanese anyway so why would he grade in comparison to australian problems
Hardest boulders downunder by dai koyamada