Guidebooks and cruxes

Steve Lewis

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On the Roxfax/UK climbing forums I recently suggested that Rockfax should avoid giving hints or saying where the crux of a route is in their guides because it invalidated one's onsight attempt if they saw the description in the guide. (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=119027) Not everyone agreed though I suspect this was because many came from a trad climbing background where the onsight ethic is less established. So I thought I'd ask here, where there are probably more sport climbers. Do people think it's better not to mention the crux moves of a route in a guide so that those that want to can try to onsight the route?

2 replies

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Steve Amstutz

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Yes I agreed with you. But something more annoying are the white chalk marks use to show an hold and often to show all of them. So there is no onsight anymore... Just for example I saw even worst in Ton Sai Thailand. In "Tantrum" 8a+ and "Asia shadow plays" 8a+ the holds for the hands were marked with a small red line (done with a water resistant pen) and blues lines were also done for the feet holds. All of that was done by a Swedish climber (I'll not tell his name), but he spent 6-8 months there, tall, no hair. I know him! So what do you think about that???

Steve Lewis

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Chalk is of course a big help in doing a route but I don't think it's ever been part of the onsight ethic. Most routes have chalk on the holds and that makes an onsight easier. Marking routes with pens is appallingly disrespectful. Why can't he use his memory? Doing lots of redpointing helps one get better at remembering sequences. Failing that one can always make a move topo (on paper) to help you remember a sequence.