Is it possible to grade a route based on a bouldery crux, an how do you do that.. My example i that i've done a route that goes like this.. easy -> 6C boulder -> 7A+ or 7B boulder -> easy. I'm not 100% of the 7A+ or 7B boulder , but it's definately harder than 7A. If I use this table: http://www.rockfax.com/publications/bgrades.html to compare grades it would be like 7c+ or so.. What would you guys grade this route ?
It all dpends on how good the rest is in between. I think 7A+ refers to a 7c route and if the it is a fairly good rest after the 6C boulder I guess, a 7c route grade is correct but it might be 7c+.
No rest, (it would probably be a rest on a much harder route. :P) just a ok sidepull to clip the crux bolt. :) Originaly I suggested 7c and later i bumped it up to 7c+ , but now i'm not so shure.. not that it really matters.. just interesting to know..
I don't like the Rockfax comparison. But all of this sort of stuff is an educated guess really. 8a bloc is V11 no question, working back from there 7a+ bloc usually feels like about V6. In my experience a v6 bloc on a route with easy climbing either side translates to around a 7c route. That bloc is obviously much harder than the 6c bloc beforehand so if there is a rest in between then staying at 7c route grade seems about right. But with no rest in between the two boulder problems you may as well just say the bloc is more like 7b thus the route is probably 7c+. Obviously all without knowing anything about the climb and how other other routes in the area are graded, but it seems you are in the ballpark.
These types of climbs are always hard to grade as boulderers usually find them really easy and route climbers find them really hard, the best grade is usually in between what the two camps think!
Grading a route based on bouldery sequenses..