During the latest boulder trip an idea came up. Instead of this constant debating and arguing about if this and that problem is 8B+ or 8C, why not simply say the first suggestion stands until the problem has had, say 6 ascents. After these 6 ascents everyone (anonymously if necessary) gives their honest opinion as to what grade it should be (we're talking about the 8B+ and up range here). 8a.nu weighs the different suggestions together and comes up with an official grade. What do you say?
I think this would be a correct way to define the grade. The opinion of the majority of the climbers who did an ascent should determine the grade.
I always wondered the following. A problem was given a certain grade. A few climbers repeated the boulder and agreed with the grade. Then one (or maybe two) climbers think it is easier and it gets downgraded. Although, the majority of the climbers did agree with the grade? Strange.
It seems to me that the trend is that the lowest grade given by a climber will be considered as the definite grade. To my opinion that is incorrect.
And it seems to me that upgrading a boulder is much more difficult, although in theory it should be the same procedure.
Exactly! If a problem has a grade it's only natural that some will think it's easier whereas others will think it's harder (although they'll never admit it). I also agree that it's really strange it's sooooo much harder and unusual to upgrade than to downgrade.
the problem is that some countries are much more sandbaggy than others. 8B+ in northumberland (britain) is probably 8C+ in magic wood(switzerland) for example.
In comparison to what some of the other women were claiming as grades for some of the boulder problems that were sent, I raised my tally on my score card. I think that there's alot of people out there that are giving themselves some really big numbers. After bouldering in Fontainbleau a 7b+ would doubtfully be considered a V8 in the states.
Now imagine not having a point of comparisson; I took up climbing around Mexico City, and everything is either over-rated or not rated at all. Found out only after climbing in Potrero Chico, where there is input from around the world. Makes me think twice about ANY grade given to a problem... Iยดm begining to care a lot more about nice moves than grades these days. At least until one of you comes and sets things straight since youยดve climbed well known and confirmed problems
"Iยดm begining to care a lot more about nice moves than grades these days."
yeah, this is the future...
I'm sick of people discussing about grades. If you wanna find out who is the best, go and compete...
"I'm sick of people discussing about grades. If you wanna find out who is the best, go and compete..." and stop reading 8a.nu, because all this site here is about is comparing grades.
I'm not critizing 8a here, but this is my honest opinion concerning the matter. People how claim to NOT care about grades are on the wrong website.
In my opinion routes are easier to grade than boulders most times. It is indeed very dificult to correctly grade boulders with few moves. Some people find some moves easier than others and opposite, some moves are easier for taller climbers, some for shorter. There is really no point in grading a boulder unless you want other people who hasn't seen it, to know how hard you climb. As soon as you see a boulder problem you will have an idea if it is something for you or not, while in a route you need more information.
it is said that flipper - a frankenjura boulder pioneer and legend, who only climbed boulders in times when already sport climbing hard routes was merely seen as real climbing (some of todays hardest frankenjura climbs start with a flipper boulder problem) - had a grading system on his own: possible and not possible!
I think a major problem also stands when people try to talk down a problem based on attempts, seeing as I have and have seen problems flashed that took better climbers a few tries, maybe even ten. But a real issue here, climbers that have little experience on the grade they are rating then downgrading it. I think that if you are 6'5" you shouldn't be calling some dude who is 5'10" a wimp cause he can't dyno to the same point easily, it's just stupid. Grades need to include height disclaimers, maybe even weight and strangth standards to be exact.
Grades (what else...)