It is curious that the bouldering grades suggested on this site translate as 6c = v5, 7a = v6, 7b = v8, 7b+ = v8/9, 7c = v9. But in every other conversion I have seen, 7a is v5. Then 7b = v7, 7b+ = v8, 7c = v9, and so on. I haven't climbed in Europe, though, so I am wondering what you all think. Is a 7a boulder in Font roughly a v6 in the U.S.?
6c/+ = V5 7a = V6 7a+ = V6/7 7b = V7/8 7b+ = V8/9 7c = V9 7c+ = V10 etc Grade conversions tend to over lap between areas because of different styles... and even though Font. grading originates in Bleau it was not consistant in the medium grade range in my opinion?!
Agreed with the conversions above, but think about the implications that has for routes. I always thought the conversion between routes and boulders in the US was a bit different : 5.12a = V4 and 5.14a = V10, with appropriate jumps along the way. I also thought the beauty of the French system was its ability to compare boulders to routes. This would mean that 7c+ (V10) is 5.14a, or that 8c+ (V16) is 5.14c. there are several 5.14c climbers, almost all of which would fail to climb V16. The conversion chart given by 8a.nu for users adding ascents is different. Still, i do think that 8a.nu, as visited and popular as it is, has the ability to set the standard on such issues.
No Eeric, the french system cannot be used for comparing routes to boulders.Almost by definition no grading system can.
As there is no clear relationship from boulders to routes, there should be two tables, not one.
There is no such thing as "grade conversions" between routes and boulder problems, all you can do is compare what the two have in common, which is individual moves or short sections of moves. For routes that are not "one-move wonders", or bolted highballs, you usually find that a 12c has a v3 crux, 13a's have v5 cruxes, 13c v7 etc. Your chart would seem to imply that anyone capable of climbing 12c can do v8/9 boulders, which is patently absurd - there are 14a's that don't have moves that hard.
Grade conversions used on this site: v5 = 6c?