Grade conversion table

Patricio Munari

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I think the conversion table is completely wrong, I mean, it's impossible that a V10 is 7C+, i think that a V10 al Joe's, Hueco and Bishop (Buttermilks stiffer than the other 2), is max a 7B+/C here.even V5 is not even close to be 7A, it would be more like 6B+/C here. I don't know about V-rating in the East cost but, i'm more than sure that the grades conversion table should be changed. This is what i propose from what i felt grades were there: - V13=8B (In some particular cases hard 8A+) - V12=8A/+ - V11=7C+(Some cases 8A) - V10=7B+/C - V9=7B (Most of the V9's at Hueco/Joe's felt like 7A+/B) - V8=7A+ - V7=7A (in some cases 6C+) - V6=6C - V5=6B+/C - V4=6B well, haven't tried anything easier/harder than V4-V13, so that's why i only put those ranges. I can give some examples of some boulders i tried on 2004 and 2005. Happies: - Cholos 7B+ - Redrum 7B+ - Low Rider 7B+/C Buttermilks: - Bubba Gump 7B+ Joe's: - Freak 7B/+ - Two Finger Variation 7A/+ (no way 7C) - Fingerhut 7B+ - Scrawny & Brawny 7B+ - Resident Evil 7B+/C Hueco: - Sex After Death 7A+ (without heelhook) - Frogger 7A - Rogered In The Shower 7B+/C - Free Willy 7B+/C - Dirty Martini 7A+ - Martini on the rocks 7C+ - New Religion 6C - Mushroom Roof 7A/+ and i could mention a lot of boulders in Hueco, being the place i climbed for most of the time.

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User Deactivated

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7a = VIII ( UIAA ) 7a+ = VIII+(UIAA) 7c+ = IX+ 8a = IX+/X-

Blake Rutherford

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Almost every climb that you mention is very steep, along with many of the climbs on your scorecard from switzerland. Surely style must have some impact on your view of the ratings. The popularity of gyms and roof climbs make many of these climbs feel much easier to todays climbers than they were in the time when sport climbers were just beginning to transition to bouldering, and had not adapted that power yet. Also some of the climbs that you mentioned have been altered since the original grade was given (Mushroom Roof, Sex after death(starting hold chisled, first move was the crux, now it is easy)). I feel like the conversion table is at least somewhat accurate. A V9 in america (not sex after death) feels close to a 7C in europe to me, especially if they are in similar styles. Style alone can account for a 3-4 grade difference on some climbs. There are soft climbs everywhere and stiff climbs everywhere, and it doesnt make sense to make a judgement about an entire country's rating system based on a small sampling of climbs and areas; especially ones that many of us here feel are soft for the V-system.

Patricio Munari

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I don't mean that the grades in the states are overgraded, just that the conversion table is not ok, i mean, the only place i climbed in the states that the conversion table would be ok, is Moab and buttermilks (not happies or sads). every V9 that i tried at hueco is not even close to a 7C here. i know that every place has soft/hard boulder problems, but every V9 at hueco and joe's are max 7A/+ here. i forgot to put in the list "this your brain on drugs low start" (hueco), that boulder is max 6c+ here and V9 there. of course there are some boulder problems that can feel easier to somebody cause of the style, but usually is half or a grade difference, but in this case, every V9 (except Moab and Buttermilks) felt much easier than a 7C here. That's my point...