I do not know the back story, but as reported to me by my friends Nalle and Paul Robinson, and pictures circulating, it seems true, that the end of Dreamtime has come.
I know someone will say "it was chipped anyway" but it still was a very important problem in the history of climbing, and if this rendered it completely unclimbable, it truly is really sad.
Shit thats so sad now,
this was the best looking line with the best moves ever on earth!!!
dont think its possible without the little sidecrimp that was really necessary to hod the swing on the cruxmove coming fro the bottom...
I think it'd be best to suss out the moves first and see if its doable, but as much as I am against gluing and chipping and constructing, I'm shocked to find that I might support gluing that chunk back on. Its such a famous and amazing problem!
Hi guys, these pictures are mine, I found it like this last tuesday with Akito Matsushima, the day was perfect and we were pretty sad... We worked out the moves again and Akito managed to do the jump, I also managed to do the last part hooking behind the border (you don't have the foothold anymore) It all seems more difficult, but still possible. I found the jump really harder as I'm tall and now I have the right foot too near to the left hand... ehehehe. Please don't glue back anything, It would be a bad work as some small pieces of rock dropped all around the missing hold. It would become more positive and ugly to see anyway.... It seems we have a new challenge here.
Since when do people render something "unclimbable?" It was probably thought that Dreamtime was unclimbable a one point, before V15 was even fathomed. So, just because geologic time includes now, does that mean we have to glue? nope. someone will send!
Leave it as it is! It will be repeated sooner then You think. Situation remaind me what happens few years ago in Bleau, when some guy chipped out holds from many of the standard problems. Most of them are now repeated .. and the grades have not changed much.
Sorry for bringing up Glue. I was drunk. Or something. Like I said, I really wouldn't normally bring it up, and I'm glad I was show that its a stupid idea.
Dreamtime is NOT DEAD!
Dreamtime is Dead