So I have done this very low level scientifical studie, based on very uncertain numbers from the 8a database:) I wanted to see if there is a correlation between the weight, height and climbing performance. And see what I can find out with the numbers people registered on their profiles. And this is just for ยจfunยจ and not to be taken to seriously.
Bouldering (male). Since it takes a long time to register everybody, I took ever fifth person, and if this person did`nt register I took the next one and so on. From about 9000 points I took every tenth person down to 8000 points. (yes, I still takes ages)
Overall data for this group;
Subjects; 119
Mean weight; 67,6kg
Mean height; 180cm
Mean BMI; 21,4
After this I devided the data in groups of 1000 points, and it looks like this. Also did a pearson r test and got -0,28, so its not a huge correlation. Guess this also has something to do with the data, like if you have narrow data the test will have a low number or something.
But as the numbers show, in general terms the BMI is important for climbing hard, but as you also can see on the scatterplot the data is not very linear, with values on both sides of the mean.
Very good job! I would guess that you would see a stronger correlation when it comes to Route climbers. I have always been of the impression that weight was less important for boulderers. Good job, please do the same for route climbers.
One thing you can say, even without calculating significance is that Ondra is a mutant, and climbing is really fun because people are doing it for a long time:)
Got a general correlation of -0,36 on the sportclimbing, so itยs a little stronger than for bouldering.
Think its interesting that you can see the difference in grading between sport and boulder pretty clear, like 2 steps and then its more or less the same. But you can also see BMI is a little lower for sport than boulder, at the elite levelย But I guess this has to do with the fact that you need somewhat more muscles, since I think the fat% would be the same.
Think you can see that if you want to get over 11k in sport, and 10k in boulder, you have to start focusing more on nutrition to keep progressing.
Could not see past nr.2000 so had to end it a little short, wanted to see when the trend would even out, but I think you can say there is a line at about 8a/7c sport, and think you would see the same for boulder from about 7C/7B and down. From here the difference is not that big.
Think i`m going try to drop my weight a little this season at least, since my BMI and level match perfect with the trend.. heh.. so if I just get my BMI down to 20-21 i`ll be crushingJ and with the ยจpopeye forearm training programยจ this has to work.
Would be very interesting to get this data exact, plus forearm size and length, with finger length. Donยt think this would be hard, and its easy to do. Like then you would be getting closer to understanding what makes a top climber. Best thing would be to get the muscle attachments to, but I think you could do this with less subjects. You should do some things like this, then get dr.8a to analyse the data.
corralation of BMI and performance