Hello guys, We are belgian climbers and we plan to have a climbing trip in the US next summer. Could you please tell us what are the best spots at this period? Is it climbable at Red river gorge, Rumney... during july-august-september? Are there other nice spots around there and on the West Coast? Actually, we'd like to climb beautiful sport routes, boulders, and trad Thanks a lot for your help Two belgian climbers
If you are going West Coast, I'd say boulder at Joe's Valley in Utah and Bishop, CA in the Buttermilks. Buttermilks would host famous problems such as Chris Sharma's Mandala. Message me and we can get much more in depth, such a subject would need a lot of information.
The Red will not really be good untill September, Rummney I don't know. You could use Bishop as a base to do alpine routes in the summer or to access Tuolumne though it would be better to stay closer, Tuolumne is great, sport, trad and bouldering. Once you leave the Sierras most everything will be too hot untill you get to the Rockies.
One issue with the US is that the vast majority of climbing areas are best in September and October with the exception of mountain regions and the extream north. I could try to sell you on checking out New Mexico since we have a bit of alpine climbing and the Enchanted tower which is sport area at above 8000 feet, but stopping in Colorado on your way across the country would be a better choice.
Go Bishop (alpine and trad), Tuolumne (everything), CO (rifle/sport, RMNP/alpine/trad/bouldering, eldorado canyon/trad..maybe to hot, south platte/trad..same) then onto the Red River for the last couple of weeks. You might (will) run into issues with afternoon thunderstorms in RMNP at this time of year. If you wanted to check out NM I could set you guys up with good beta and such.
>Tuolumne I could go on a trip to USA just to try those impressive slabs/walls on knobs and crystals (I guess "Peace" should not be the only one and there's easier stuff in the same style, am I right?)
You are correct. There is a wall of all 6b to 6c knob climbs that are just under vertical. On the same wall as Peace you also have the Bachar-Yerian 6c+, quite runout but relatively safe. There are several other knobby climbs on the wall as well from 1 to 5 pitches and from about 6a to as hard as Peace. Oh yeah and the stuff around Electric Africa 7b+ to 8a+ maybe 6 routes, shorter though than Peace and its companions. There is another wall that is pretty difficult to find, South Wizz Dome that had routea 7a+ to 8a and is quite spectacular, though I've only been to it once. Don't forget the classic trad routes as well South Crack 6 pitches 5.8 fingers and slab, Blues Riff 6c+ do just the first 2 pitches, Goldfinger 7a+, OZ 6b+ 4 pitches with an Indian Creek like dihedral pitch and a really great face pitch. Ther are countless other very nice trad line and sporty slab routes in the 5.9 to 5.10 range, The Dike route, Phobos and Deimos, West Crack and Cooke Booke, The Regular Route on Fairview and Lucky Streaks , Cry in Time Again. If you like to hike a bit, Cathedral Peak and the Matthes Crest can be linked, a 900' spire and a 4000' ridge traverse both of which are 5.6 (do the Matthes first and on your way out do Cathedral) Other more alpine objectives in Tuolumne are the Mt Connes Routes (2, 5.6 ridges, go up the West and down the North, and the Harding route 5.10/5.11) and the 3rd Pillar of Mt Dana 5.10, the last pitch of this is super fun in a really cool position. It is just too bad that in July the Rostrum will be closed for falcon nesting and Astroman will be too hot to enjoy it as they are only about 45 minutes away down in the Yosemite Valley with the hoards of people.
Hi, Rumney is usually miserable in July with bugs and heat, but by August it is usually starting to get nice. Late August and september are usually really great (my favorite time - not too hot but not too cold). Personally I wouldn't bother with the red river gorge, you're too early. The west will likely have fine weather for the 3 of your months. If I were you and could travel anywhere Id spend July and first half of august in Northern Arizona then travel to the north east, Rumney, Cathedral,etc for the second half of august and all of september. Or if you were really into trad (I'm not) substitute the north east with 6 weeks in the Yosemite/Tuolumne area. hope that helps. -maurice
How about squamish, then a visit to skaha, then over to canmore. Finish at smith for your last couple of weeks, or fly to rumney. Yes, that's mostly Canada, but that's where the temps will be most climbable.
Have fun!
I think N AZ would not be a great destination. The sport climbing is fine, slightly grainy limestone 10-15 meters tall for the most part with grades that are typically good for fluffing ones ego. The areas are not all that big either though there are new one being developed. I personally think that August is too hot in the Flagstaff area, even when chasing shade. Paridise forks is very good half pitch trad climbing but does not even come close to what you could do in the Sierras/Tuolumne, that being said you can do tons of pitches as there are 100+ routes all with in a 5-10 walk of each other, it is quite a compact area, but again it will be a bit on the warm side. As far as the Red River, I've been twice for a week or a little more each time. Once stating September 18th and the other time starting Sep 26th? I think. The weather was fine both times it was possible to climb in either the sun or shade. Smith could also be good at the end of your visit if you did not want to travel the 1500 miles from Colorado if you went there or the 2000+ miles if you stayed on the west coast, probably not ideal temps for sending but cool enough that you would be able to climb most days. If you want more info on Smith you could e-mail the user "Mono" on the mountainproject.com website. As far as Canada, I'd like to go to squamish but have never made it mostly because I'm not sure really what to make of the weather. I've been told that there is usually a 3 week window of great weather at some point, otherwise expect to get rained on quite a bit. The weather will be far more stable in the Sierras.
Climbing trip USA