Concerning climbing, we all know the Onsight, Flash, Solo and Red Point styles but through the years, I noticed that not every climber has the same concept for such styles. Discussing about this subject is always dodgy as people could be blamed of bending the rules. We had better keep in mind that this is not a forum to blame climbers but to establish the basic rules, in order to understand the style itself, when a climber mentions one of these styles. Styles (brief description): Onsight: Free climbing a route/boulder for the very first time without any prior information about the route but the grade. Flash: Free climbing a route/boulder for the very first time having some information about the sequence. This information can be acquired by seeing other climbers on it or by having a detailed description of the moves. Own experience on the route/boulder is not allowed. Red Point: Free climbing a route, no matter how many times we have been on the route before. Free Solo: Free climbing a bold route without rope or other sort of protection. It is very important to follow these rules strictly in order to play fair. Examples of bending the rules in someoneยs favor: 1.- I hear people claiming an Onsight/Flash, and clarify later ยbut on Top ropeย. Note: None of the prior styles are compatible with top roping. 2.- There are people who worked out the moves by pulling the holds of a boulder from the floor, and claimed later a Flash ascent. Note: A Flash ascent is not compatible with working out the moves. 3.- People claimed Flash/Onsight ascent having been on the route before, the climbers usually mention a bad memory to remember the moves. Note: Neither of these styles is compatible with being on the route, no matter the memory of the climber. 4.- People fell at the very last move because a sandy hold or other issue and claimed an Onsight/Red point ascent afterwards. Note: No Onsight/Red point is compatible with a fall. 5.- Free Soloing a route with preplaced gear. Note: Such style is not compatible with any sort of protection. Etcetera. It is also very important to point out that climbers can always climb in their own way, but if you want do an awareness of your achievements, I think it is honest to play with the same rules as others do and not give a further meaning to the established styles. If any variation of style was mentioned, then it would not match to the style described. A good dose of common sense and understanding are always welcome.
>We had better keep in mind that this is not a forum to blame climbers but to establish the basic rules, > in order to understand the style itself, when a climber mentions one of these styles. sorry, but I disagree. I don't think that climbing needs rules. ... and who says that you can't blame someone on this forum? ... and you forgot 'brownpoint' in your list.
Thanks Idar, I just corrected it. Hi Anton! you said climbing does not need rules, but on the other hand you suggested me Brown Point, does it make sense?. I just listed the basic styles which we can hardly share them, so we'd better not to go any further yet. Back to the subject, as I mentioned, "everyone can always climb in their own way". Nevertheless, Wolfgang Gรผllich climbed Action Directe using the Red Point style, if he used the Aid climbing style or not rules at all, he would never go one step higher. Concerning the second question, I do not attempt to point any climber, there is not point in blaming anyone. The point is not to twist the styles. Anyway!, if you do not like rules, enjoy the A0 as I do :-)))) Regards
Here are the 8a ethic recommendation (green, yellow and red) that 8a first published in 2003 . We use the traffic light system as we do not want to give precise rules but instead recommendations.
Like it or not, there absolutely ARE rules to climbing. I'm not saying one must follow the rules.. but to claim a "flash" of a climb, when you have not actually done so (according to the majority definition of what a flash constitutes) is just straight up lying.
If u dont clip the last anchor and jump (or fall after doing all the moves), can u still claim it an Onsight/Red point ascent? I did that sometimes ;) Regards
Hi Gollum, Of course, you can jump down on propose without clipping the last anchor, that is good fun! But, keep in mind that is OK for personal achievements, on the other hand, such practice can be taken as an excuse for cheeky guys who did not managed to clip the last anchor. Clipping the anchor sweeps away any doubt of your red pointing. So what I do is, I clip in, clip out and jump to the open airrrrrrrrrrrย ย .
Climbing styles