Climbing in Italy

Northern Italy is full of bolted crags and multi-pitch routes, classic alpine routes and even some modern trad. The surroundings of Milano may be a good choice where to live: from there you can reach a good number of crags in 1 or 2 hours by car, ranging from the gneiss of Valle d'Aosta to the limestone of Lecco or Finale Ligure. Within 3 hours you can get to Arco di Trento, and in 5 hours to the Dolomites. If you prefer trad climbing, Valle dell'Orco, near Turin, could become your favorite place, with lots of single and multi pitch trad routes. Get in touch if you need more info!

My experience is that there's climbing everywhere in Italy. Especially in Sardinia and northern Italy, but probably everywhere. If you like several types of climbing (bouldering, sport, trad, alpine) the northern part is preferable. Doesn't matter much if you live in Turin, Genova, Milan, Verona, Parma, Bologna or Trento, but at least I know that in Turin you will have lots of climbing pretty close. I lived there for one year and started climbing there. Some nice sport crags are just 15mins from the city, and further away you will find lots of nice multipitch sport and trad routes. The guidebook is great (Passaggio a nord ovest). Finale Ligure is just 1hr away, Arco is maybe 3-4hrs away. The alpine climbing in the Mt Blanc massif or the maritime Alpes is just a couple of hours away. The Dolomites are a few hours away, still short enough for a weekend trip. There's bouldering in Val d'Aosta and Gressoney, I haven't tried it there myself but rumors say it's very good.The ice climbing in Valle Varaita and all the other small valleys in the maritime Alpes can keep you busy in the winter, if you're not into skiing. In the city you will find several climbing gyms. Anyway, I recommend at least a trip to Sardinia (or, why not move there?). The island is full of nice climbing! Have a look in Pietra di Luna (the guidebook - borrow it from a friend, I know plenty of Brits go there) and you will understand ;) From Turin you can drive to Livorno and take the ferry there. It's great for an easter trip, but in the middle of the summer it's very warm - so alpine climbing in the Alps is probably better...although I've had a week of Sardinia climbing in July and survived (in the shadow). I never tried bouldering there, but the guidebook contains quite much of it. Good luck, and send me a message if you have questions. PS. Both of the mentioned guidebooks are made by Maurizio Oviglia. He's quite famous for them! He grew up in Turin, climbed "everything" in the area, moved to Sardinia and developed plenty of crags there before he wrote the guidebooks. I especially like his Sardinia guidebook since it has so nice photos from almost every crag. The book isn't complete so you may want to supplement it with small local books, but the book is perfect for dreaming about climbing there and for planning the trips...

Thanks very much both of you Very good replies, I will put some thought into it and be in touch nearer the time, I am thinking northern italy, although anderfo sanrdinia does sound incredible, but might keep it as a holiday destination Many thanks sam