Climbing Comp grades?

It is hard to stick a grade on a competition problem. Expect things up to 7c for the guys and 7b for the girls. Maybe a bit more if the moves are straightforward and pure power. A lot less if it's very tricky.

WC lead in puurs: for the finals I heard something about 8b+ or 8c for the men. Same route more or less for the women superfinal (some extra holds) Don't know if that is correct, not official or anything...just something I heard...

I've heard from those on the US comp circuit (people that often win in the open divisions), its about v6, v7-8, v9, v11 or so for things like at Vail, and possibly harder. And a friend who climbed in a recent US National Sport Climbing comp said that the mens Finals route was a 5.14. 

I've only judged a few comps, notably SCS and ABS comps. For those comps, we found the haredst routes being around 8a. On the other hand, in the recentbouler comps, you usually only see the problems going to 7b and c. But for the local ABS that Alex Puccio showed up for, the grades stuck around v6 for the qualifiers on both sides, while the womens problems went to v8, the mens had two v8's and one v10  I feel like I should comment that nobody finished the v10, and as such it's grade was subject to a lot of skepticism..

Jamie Emerson helped set the problems at Vail in the recent WC boulder event.  Talking about the men's finals there, he said, "Men’s 1 was probably hard V9, Men’s 2 was probably V10, Men’s 3 was probably hard V9 or V10 and Men’s 4 was probably V10 as well. It’s difficult to assign outside grades to comp problems, especially with moves as different as these. All of the moves in the Men’s problems were done by forerunners who climb V12 or less."

I would guess that the male boulder problems are between 7C and 8A in the World Cup and for female 7B to 7C. Regarding routes I would say 8a+, 8b and 8b+ for the qually, semi and the final. For female; 7c+, 8a and 8b.