How far does one go when cleaning a route? (Another grey area discussion!) Is it ok to smash a loose stone out of a crack/rail using a hammer or nut pick so opening up a handhold, or do we leave the tools at home and only remove what will come off by hand? What about fragile rock? Do we break it off (cracking it with a hammer if necessary) and glue it back on (crucial hold) or do we leave it and hope it doesnt fall off on someones head?? If you dull the edge of a crimp/pocket by rubbing it with a stone to prevent it cutting your hands is this chipping? Comments? Insights?
interesting. from what I've heard, most force what "is likely to break anyway" with tools. and, for what doesn't come off but still feels unstable (eg slightly expanding flakes on granite) they consider some use of sika(glue). In extreme cases (eg established routes with something that starts to move) they first remove the feature, then glue it back in the same exact place. I'm obviously talking of sport climbing spots.
I think it is a matter of safety. If you feel and you see that a piece of rock is not stable and the safety of climbers is in danger than you should take that down...of course this should not be an excuse to create new holds or to adjust the cutting edges. on the other hand when we choose a line it should be as much as possible on a stable rock..otherwise a complete "hammer-ing" could be need. Anyway i saw also other situation...when a moving rock exist in the route instead of removing there is a note at the start of the route to pay attention (...but i don't agree this solution...)
Areas I have climbed at deal with loose rocks by chalking an X on them, and it is accepted that climbing the route should avoid the use of the Xed rocks as they could come loose. That being said, the routes I've done have not NEEDED to use the Xed rocks. I'm sure it's different if a rock that was once a key hold has worked loose...
Cleaning or chipping?