Hi guys, I live in South Korea and have been developing boulders here for a couple years with a great crew. There are however a few problems with climbing ethics in Korea. At least in my opinion. I do believe that the new generation of climbers is a little more aware though. Problem 1 Boulders are used for practice bolting, and bolt ladders are often put on them to practice aiding. Problem 2 Boulders in a couple areas have been covered with artificial holds (maybe to warm up on?) Problem 3 Rock in general is chipped without hesitation. One crag in general comes to mind where perfectly good routes were re-manufactured so that the easiest climb is on the left and the grades become more difficult as you work you way right. THIS IS WHERE YOU CAN HELP A few people here have organized the Reel Rock Tour for Seoul, and have asked me to talk about the potential for boulder development in this country. (the potential is high) The problem is that my words don't hold any weight in this culture for 3 reasons. 1. I'm not Korean (this is understandable, but the Koreans that develop with me are all younger than mid 30's) which brings us to #2 2. The oldest climbers make the decisions about climbing here. Period. 3. The only people that are really listened to (aside from the elderly) are the professionals, and the climbers whom have proven themselves by achieving international notoriety. So, if any of you comp climbers, and sponsored athletes would be willing to give me a statement about ethics it would put a SHIT TON more weight into my little 10min slide show that I will be putting on. Korea has a lot of potential, I'd hate to see it fall short of what it could be.
Chipping, Ethics and quotes from the Pros.