If 8a = 8.00 then 8a + = 8.16 and 8b = 8.33 and 8b+ = 8.49 and 8c = 8.67 and 8c + = 8.84 and 9a = 9.00 therefore a route with 2 alternate starts with individual route grades 8a+ and 8b+ with the same top section would have different scores i.e. the 8b+ start would have 0.32 higher score that equates to 2 grade points so the second route is 2 grade points harder than the first so long as the top section of the climb is the same please discuss!
The two different routes will only have different grades as long as there is no good rest in between, i.e. if there is a no hands rest in between, the two routes will have the same grade. You can divide the grades in to calculation points but it has nothing to do with the gradings of the two different grades.
Hi Jens Interesting but why would a rest make a difference if the rest is the same for both routes then the effort involved in climbing the routes would be different irrespective of the rest e.g. if you give the rest a figure of -5 recovery then using the figures above it would give you 8.16 + 8.67 -5 = 11.83 for the first route and 8.49 + 8.67 -5 = 12.16 for the second again a difference of .33 or 2 grade points Just
Mathematics is the science and study of quantity, structure, space, and change. Mathematicians seek out patterns,[2][3] formulate new conjectures, and establish truth by rigorous deduction from appropriately chosen axioms and definitions.[4]
Go climbing!!
@ Just: I guess you are not an active climber. If you climb an 8b+ with a no hands rest and then stack another 8b+, the grade of the route would be 8b+ or maybe 8c. If the first part is 7a+ or 8a+, the whole route would also be 8b+. Here are some further examples. 8b (no hands rest) 8b = 8b or 8b+ 7b (no resting) 8b = 8b 8b (no resting) 7b = 8b 8a (no hands rest) 8b = 8b Your resting figure of five is different based on the difficulty. A no hands rest of an 8b+ might give -5 but a no hands rest after a 7a, only gives -0.5.
Hi Jens I do climb though not at those grades they were just used for an example I could have used 6a just as well. the rest figure given is an example to demonstrate that the rest is a constant in that the rest allows the same amount of recovery for both routes. what I am trying to demonstrate is that if you have a route with different starts and a rest then the same ending the overall grade for the route should be more for the harder start as the rest will allow the same amount of recovery for both routes. I am aware that the grading system as it currently stands is very subjective and cannot be quantified successfully, as it is down to opinion of each individual climber and they have many things going on that may effect their view of the grade of the route. anyway like the previous person mentioned I am going Climbing.
I am afraid you are wrong. The amount of recovery is NOT the same if your son has climbed an 8b+ or a 7a+ and than gets to a good rest. If he has climbed an 8b+ and, like in a computer game, lost like 80 % of his power, he will stay much longer and better take advantage of the rest, as if he has climbed a 7a+ and only lost 10 %. (The theory works just as good comparing 8b+ with 8a+)
can sport grades be divided up ito equal steps?