Hi,
What would you think to be the best climbing destinations in Europe? I am looking for a good destinations that is family friendly, sunshine guaranteed in spring time and good (camping) accomodation close to the crags. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
If you`re considering Arco it`s important to know that Terra Promessa is really close to Massone, less frequented, has better scenery, has better routes and the routes are not the polished crap you get in some of Massone`s classics...Il Pueblo used to be nice in Massone but since some weird artists have decorated it in rubber strings it sucks...
Must see in Europe: Ceuse! St. Leger is also very nice...Frankenjura is nice but Jens suggestion of after April 15th is very optimistic:)...used to study there until last semster and if there`s a reasonable spring things should be dry by the end of April earliest, even though notorious drippers may be wet until middle of may, dry days provided...
Hello everybody! What about the temperature in Arco on Summer? Say, beginning of August. Is it way too hot to climb there or it's OK? I am looking for places to climb in August, for 2-3 weeks, what are the good places with big number of 6a-7c routes? Thanks!
Sasha, I would not recommend Arco in August. It used to be unbearably hot 10 years ago and these past years the summers have been even hotter! You'll probably be better off visiting some of the areas in the French Alps (prob. also Ceuse) during that period. Alex
Alex, thanks for the tip! Several other people have also told me that Arco (and Italy in general) and Spain are not the best places to climb in August, as it's very hot :). hey have suggested Austria (Zillertal), Swiss, Germany (Frankenjura). So now I'm gathering more info about these areas... Sasha.
If you`re planning to go to the Frankenjura there is a very good database on www.climbing.de-if you speak German. www.frankenjura.com also has an English version.It can be hot there in August too but in general there are lots of crags in the woods which are shady and therefore okay.
Zillertal is somewhat dependent on how good you are...shady and cool places such as Bachhexe, Tulfer, Monkey Island or Horny Trout are only really good if you climb at least 7b/c upwards, if not there aren`t so many routes to choose from. The Frankenjura offers more and if you happen to be there when its raining, the many caves should be dry by August and will provide space to climb even when its raining.
Christian, thank you! At the moment 7b is around my top limit rather than my warm-up level, so I'll remember to check the route lists carefully when choosing the routes in Zillertal! Actually, Frankenjura is much closer to drive to from Estonia :), so it might be really a good place to stay at...
Hey Sasha, if you need some infos or route tipps just ask...used to study in the frankenjura until December 2006/January 2007 and know the place pretty well...
Christian, we are planning to stay there for 3 weeks, and the first week we will definitely need to warm up, get in shape, get used to the stone, etc. Can you suggest few rock areas with plenty of 6a-6c routes in one place (or nearby rocks)? Of course I am going to check climbing.de and frankenjura.com but there are way too many routes over there, I might get lost :)
Okay, here are some:
Heldwand: pretty nice...Heldbrรคu is a very nice climb, 7a
Roter Fels: some of the longest routes in the Frankenjura, face climbing: Schaumschlรคger is one of the best 6a+s in the Frankenjura, there are other great routes as well-at least 70 meter rope needed.
Marientaler Wand: lots of nice routes there, a lot of classics such as Schlaffsack (6b+) Opa Falkenstein (6c), Melodie und Rhytmus (6b)...pretty nice also: Wounded Knee (7b), Hรคngt a weng รผber (7a)...
Soranger Wand is nice too.
Gernerfels has the best 7a in the frankenjura: ultraclassic Supernase: action directe with jugs...don`t go there on Sundays, its on private ground and the owners are very nice...so respect their privacy on Sundays...
Planetarium has an absolute must climb, Liebesmรผh 7b, and nice warm ups...
Weiรenstein is one of the most classic crags...not nice on the weekend, way too crowded...lots of overhanging classics 6c-7b, nice routes to warm up, too.
Also check: Kalte Wand, Zehnerstein, Schlossbergwand, Schlosszwergwand-both are very close to each other, shady and offer nice routes as well
Christian, I really appreciate your help here! :)
Your long list of areas should keep us very busy (and our fingers burning) for these weeks that we hopefully will stay at Frankenjura.
Greetings from the Estonian climbers!
Sasha.
Try to find it here http://www.marulianus.hr/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=26&Itemid=57 Or contact them, they can give you all info you need.
Best climbing destinations in europe