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Climb to Paris
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9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
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9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
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Open forum

5.14 (8b+ and up) via gear?

J V
how many 14's go via natural pro??? how many people can climb them? check out alan moore's score card -
what does it mean to go with natural pro??
J V
to be sent with cams and nuts (etc) for protection, not with bolts and quickdraws...sorry for being unclear
Ok, clear now, thanx. In Valle dell'Orco -Italy- there's an 8b+ route sent last year by Didier Berthod from Switzerland; it's called Greenspit and it's a roof 12 m long, perfectly orizontal, with a small crack and only one spit at the belay. Berthod climbed it in traditional style.
Greenspit was done with gear, but he also had gear preplaced. i think the hardest route lead on gear, and placing it all on lead was done by Sonnie Trotter. The route is the East Face in Smith Rock, i think it is graded either 5.13d or 5.14a.
J V
alan moore placed his own gear on lead- fathers day goes at 14a - ron kauk did some ridiculous line in yosemite but i heard it was pre-placed as well - matt wilder gave the south face of washington column 14a but i'm pretty sure he used a bolt either way these things are very impressive
lars
it is a 8b+ somewhere
Whic 8b+ are you talking about??
The 8b+ is called father's day and is located @ Donner Summit in California. It is rated 13a on the bottom half and is then a bolted 14a crack, but Alan decided to do it all natural pro instead. I watched him send it and it was very impressive.