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Dr 8a

Yet another forearm question...

I'm hoping to validate my doctor's opinion about my forearm. I know it's a common issue, but I'm not 100% sure that I'm handling things correctly. A little background: I've always had some issues with tight forearms; my job requires a lot of typing and the tops of my forearms sometimes get tight and/or sore (never the bottoms). After stopping for a while, I'm usually better within a day or two. About 15 months ago, I ran into bigger problems; I had bad, sharp pain in both arms, particularly when making twisting motions (such as turning a doorknob). A doctor diagnosed me with tendonitis and I started physical therapy. After a few months, I seemed to be doing better, and maybe 6-8 months later, I felt normal again. I completely stopped climbing during this time, since I was worried about keeping my job and couldn't afford to lose my typing entirely. I just started climbing once more, and have been twice to a gym. I'm climbing very cautiously, no more than two hours at a time, with about 50% bouldering and stretching before and after. I haven't experienced any real pain, but my forearms are definitely tight and a little sore. I also get a twinge in my elbow if I tighten my bicep. I'm pretty nervous about hurting myself again, so it's tough to tell if I'm worried about nothing. It seems like most people run into problems from overtraining, which doesn't seem to be the problem in my case... I'm climbing twice a week, tops, and not doing anything difficult. I see a few possibilities: 1.) I could just be extremely sensitive to tendon problems. 2.) I could have been misdiagnosed with the tendonitis, and I could have some other underlying issue. 3.) My tendonitis could have been unrelated to my sore forearms, which are just weak and need to be strengthened considerably. Does anyone have any thoughts? I'm paranoid about reinjuring myself and I'm worried it's holding me back.
Well Geoff, I am no doctor, but if I were you I would do a lot of endurance climbing on big holds just to get real pumped. The massive blood flow through the arms may help with out further injuring yourself. Make sure its real juggy and easy and just climb until you cant hold on anymore...
Hi Geoff I would go with option #3 that is you have weak forarms specifically extensormuscles weaker than your flexors ( that is the muscles that curl the fingers are stronger than those extending them ) , I also agree with Derk that you should get your cirkulation up by climbing easy on big holds, also use a foam ball to squeeze and combine that with a rubber band over all fingertips to resist when you open the hand - look up the article above in the forum on handtraining Best of luck Björn