Wrist Sublux?

Diego De Diana

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Hi, I have been on a climbing trip for about 7 months now and am starting to have some issues with my wrist, that hopefully you can help me with? In the past, occasionally when I catch open holds bouldering my hand feels like it wants to seperate from my forearm. I let go, rest for 5 min and the problem seems to dissappear. Recently its been happening more often, and more severely, leaving a dull ache in my wrist. Yesterday the feeling of my hand disconnecting was far greater (even on crimps) and the ache seems to have become acute. I am now constantly aware of the pain in my wrist so am out on rest days. Are you able to shed some light as to what this might be and how I can fix this? Thanks so much for any assistance! Diego

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Bjoern Alber

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Hi Diego This is a hard one to to make an educated guess at. Most likely it is nothing more severe than an inbalance between your extensor and flexor muscles of the wrist - causing your wrist to be lax - the remedy would be to add som heavy wrist curls and wrist extension (roll a dumbell or barbell hands up & down to your training regiment and maybe some antiinflamatorics. It might however be a tear or insufficiency in the carporadial or carpoulnar ligaments (ligaments of the wrist) or even a tear in the ligament structures of the carpal bones (midlle hand ) itself - I would strongly recommend you to see a sports MD/ortopedic surgeon asap to make sure it is just an overstraining/imbalance- this to prevent any irrepairable damage. Best of luck Björn