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Dr 8a

Why do we need extensors?

Hy there I must have accuired some disbalance between my flexor and extensor muscles of the forearm as the extensor really hurt even when not climbing. (you can see the muscle well on the lactic acid thread foto) It definitely not an epicondyltitis as it is in the middle of the arm. I think i will need to slow down climbing and strengthen my muscles first. But the question is why do we climbers need our extensors so often? I know a lot of people with lateral epicondylitis but generally climbing is about gripping (flexors)!
Hi anatomy lesson part one: flex your hand and curl your fingers maximally- now try to force the fingers open with your other hand-easy wasn't it, now try it again with your wrist straight -right it was impossible-thus the extensors is crutial in delivering grip strenght -most people neglect them but take a look at the ouside part of the forarm close to the elbow -when pinching there is a little muscle bulge there that actually is caracteristic for good climber -extensor carpiradialis- it in combination with the other strong extensors is what you want for good gripping the real trick is to get these muscles "in par" with your flexor muscles. Another muscle that is overstressed in a climber is the "pronator Teres on the inside of your elbow - it resist the spuupinating (palms up) force of the biceps and have ahell of a job doing that- most peopl do chin ups palms up where they are considerably stronger while climber have to pull up palms down (out) so it is important to do biceps training in this position So start working on that balance - best of luck Björn