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Dr 8a

Which fingers to use for 1/2 finger pockets?

Laurent Rel
I see on photos/videos that pro climbers seems to use their middle finger for mono pockets and middle + ring for 2 finger pockets. I am only beginer, but I injured my ring finger myself trying to hold a 2 finger pocket with middle+ring with open grip. After recovering I tested myself carrying weight with only 1 finger. And my index is by far the strongest of my finger while ring is by far the weakest. Is it normal? Why are pros using middle for monos and middle+ring for 2 finger pockets?

Jan Hasenbichler
Hi Laurent, I am no pro, but after having climbed for 13 years I can tell you, that there are many different people out there. I have seen about as many people using index and middle finger for two finger pockets as I have seen index and ring finger used. Also for one finger pockets it's different. Many people prefer the middle finger, but I have always been considerably stronger in my ring fingers. If your index finger is the strongest, then that's also okay. Try to train your fingers equally and if one of them becomes considerably stronger or if you just prefer one of them, then just use it and don't think about, what the pros might or might not do. So stay strong and best regards Jan