Hey, i've had a bit of a weird forearm injury for a few months now - I was wondering if anyone else had had or even heard or something similar, and what they did about it. Basically a few months ago I got back from a climbing trip to Thailand, bouldered a lot indoors for three days and then tried a route the next day and my forearms were incredibly sore. Not surprising I guess because i'd really flattened myself. Anyway, I took some days off but ever since if i dont quite warm up completely or pull hard on small, crimpy holds I get the weirdest sensation in both forearms. Sometimes when I do warm up its still there. Its hard to describe, when im actually pulling down it doesn't feel much different, but when i let go of the hold it feels like all the muscles in my forearm linking to my fingers suddenly release and recoil for a couple of seconds. It doesn't particularly hurt but it doesn't feel good at all. Its got a fair bit better in the last few weeks where i've just been doing roofy problems. Taking a few days off seems to help a bit too, and its not really there at all if im doing circuits - only bouldering. Pockets are okay but for some reason half crimp or even open handed full hand edges aren't. Sorry for the essay, its quite a weird thing to describe. I read a post further down about suspected compartment syndrome but dont think it sounds very similar (which is good!). Anyway, any thoughts would be great. Omar
Hi Omar
Sory for late reply
Have been Railey climbing for a month and avoided the net.
No it doesn't sound as bad as a full compartment but you are proable overtrained. Cut back with at least 7-10 days of full rest of the forarms0=no climbing. Stretch booth flexors and extensors a couple times per day, a good worktrough by a qualified massage terapeut could help, A massage terapeut or physioterapeut might also use TENS-= nerve/muscle electrical stimulation - it would speed up recovery. Finally you could also try to rub Votaren gel on the forarms tvice a day for maximum 10 days.
best of luck
Bjรถrn
Hey Bjorn, Thank you for the reply. I climbed less over Christmas and now its starting to feel a lot better so I think you were probably right with the overtraining. Hope you had fun in Railay Omar
weird injury to both forearms