Dr 8a

weird injury to both forearms

Omar Rose
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Hey, i've had a bit of a weird forearm injury for a few months now - I was wondering if anyone else had had or even heard or something similar, and what they did about it. Basically a few months ago I got back from a climbing trip to Thailand, bouldered a lot indoors for three days and then tried a route the next day and my forearms were incredibly sore. Not surprising I guess because i'd really flattened myself. Anyway, I took some days off but ever since if i dont quite warm up completely or pull hard on small, crimpy holds I get the weirdest sensation in both forearms. Sometimes when I do warm up its still there. Its hard to describe, when im actually pulling down it doesn't feel much different, but when i let go of the hold it feels like all the muscles in my forearm linking to my fingers suddenly release and recoil for a couple of seconds. It doesn't particularly hurt but it doesn't feel good at all. Its got a fair bit better in the last few weeks where i've just been doing roofy problems. Taking a few days off seems to help a bit too, and its not really there at all if im doing circuits - only bouldering. Pockets are okay but for some reason half crimp or even open handed full hand edges aren't. Sorry for the essay, its quite a weird thing to describe. I read a post further down about suspected compartment syndrome but dont think it sounds very similar (which is good!). Anyway, any thoughts would be great. Omar
Bjoern Alber
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Hi Omar Sory for late reply Have been Railey climbing for a month and avoided the net. No it doesn't sound as bad as a full compartment but you are proable overtrained. Cut back with at least 7-10 days of full rest of the forarms0=no climbing. Stretch booth flexors and extensors a couple times per day, a good worktrough by a qualified massage terapeut could help, A massage terapeut or physioterapeut might also use TENS-= nerve/muscle electrical stimulation - it would speed up recovery. Finally you could also try to rub Votaren gel on the forarms tvice a day for maximum 10 days. best of luck Bjรถrn
Omar Rose
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Hey Bjorn, Thank you for the reply. I climbed less over Christmas and now its starting to feel a lot better so I think you were probably right with the overtraining. Hope you had fun in Railay Omar