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Dr 8a

Unrested pulley rupture/strain

Hello, It Happened 10th of July, sound was noisy like from airgun, and i felt pain in mu left middle finger. I've rested 3 weeks, than i was climbing for another 3 in rodellar, but only on routes without crimpy holds. After that i climbed only several times, on soft routes. I consider i ruptured A2 or A3 pulley (basing on "one move too many"). Of course during all my climbs after this small accident my finger was always taped. Now almost 3 months passed and i noticed, that when i pull sth with this finger, and i hold it - i can fill that tendon is not as close to the bone as in my second hand. Now i don't feel any pain but i don't climb actually - when pain occured it was always rather mild, an d i felt it after climbing. I didn't noticed bow string or sth like that, it don't hurts - i just want to know if its normal after trauma like that, or i need to go to the specialist, make USG etc. Or maybe just total rest for some time would by enough? thanks for help - Tomek
Hi Tomek, I had the same experience 4 years ago. I have tried almost everything, from rest to medication. The hand surgeon say they can fix it, but the operation CAN go wrong, and make it worse. The situation is now that I can climb as hard as I can pull, as long as I tape the A2 well. After an indoor session or hard climbing outdoors I can feel it afterwards, but the pain is conceivable. If you are an elite climber and want to go back to that level I may not the right person to ask, but otherwise, my advice would be, tape and climb soft to begin with, go harder when you feel stronger and the pain is not too bad.
Hi TomazI agree with the coment below- the rupture will most prable heal eventually if you keep goin "slow" a profylactically tape best of luck Björn