The "right" wheight?

Federico Lillacci

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Hi, this is not a question directly related to injuries, but rather to prevention. I'm 186 cm tall and I currently weigh something between 76 and 76.5 kg, medium body build. I know I'm not fat but I'm just wondering if I'm a little (too?) heavy to climb safely: in other words, am I too heavy for my fingers? What could be -if any- a right weight for me, considered that I like to climb old style routes (vertical walls with small, small, small holds... )? Thanks! PS: Sorry for the typing mistake in the title, maybe a moderator could correct it :) .

3 replies

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Morgan Barnes

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I would like to know an answer to this question too, I'm 180 cm tall and 75 kg. thanks

Bjoern Alber

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Hi First of all read my article on anorexia first - to put things into perspective. There are no garantees - and booth your bodyweights will be acceptable as long as your finger have the right predisposition and you training groundwork is well done. What I am saying is by making sure you are not malnutritioned, that you warm up and rest sufficiently, that you gradually adjust to higher levels of loading , will be your best protection. Take the following only as examples; Chris Sharma is slightly shorter but within your weight range - he has been at this game for many years! I am not a good climber myself (max 7a) but have been climbing for 20 odd years with only minor finger injuries - I am 182 , bodyweight around 95 kg. So make the right preparations and climb on Björn

Federico Lillacci

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Many thanks for your very interesting reply Dr 8a! Luckily I'm used to carefully warm up before climbing/training (campus board, etc...) and to not overdo while training. I'm going to follow your guidelines about food, thanks again.