Tendon or pulley?

Jelmer Pelt

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Hello Björn, I have a question concerning a slightly irritating finger injury i have wich seems to slowly get worse. The problem lies somewhere between my Phalanx proximalis 3 and phalanx medialis 3(it seems to be just above the joint). This area is quite pressure sensetive but i hardly notice it during climbing. After my climbing session it gets worse for litle amount of time but the day after (or after 1 day rest) i don't really feel it anymore. Although sometimes when i grap something wich has a (sharp) edge it can provoke the pain a bit. Same effect when i put pressure on the area with my fingers, sometimes it's hurts sometimes it doesn't. I can't seem to figure out if this is a problem of the A3 maby even A4 pulley or something that has to do with the Tendon, such as tendovaginitis. I been taping the painfull area and stretching for some weeks now with no result. I was thinking about iceing the area for a few minutes after each climbing session but i'll start with that this week. I'm basicly kind of clueless at the moment of what to do with it so i was hoping you could help me find a solution. Thank you in advance Jelmer

3 replies

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Bjoern Alber

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Hi Jelmer The way your pain comes and goes it displays the caridinal symtoms of an inflammation - most likely due to overuse. I would guess the pulley is inflammed. Try icing after training (and cut down on total amount of and specifically small grip climbing. Try combining an intiinflammatory gel with an antinflammatory drug (Voltaren). do stretching of the finger and foam ball gripp training several times per day. Remember - most important - I can only make an educated guess - you should get a sports medicine trained MD to examine and diagnose your injury - this will avoid loosing a lot of time trying remedies for something you actually don't have Best of luck Björn

Alexander Stahl

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Hi Björn. My A2, A3/A4 pulleys are a little bit sore in my index finger. More sore after training. I don't feel any pain while climbing, only when I put pressure on my finger. Do you think it's an inflammation? Do I need to take antinflammatory drogs since the pain is not that strong, only a bit sore as I mentioned.

Bjoern Alber

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Hi No I would think that cutting back a little and maybe use some voltaren gel a few days combined with pulley taping would be sufficient Björn