Tedonosis not "itis"

this is the best article i found on it, when i had unexplained elbow problems: http://www.athlon.com.au/articles/r&i_dodgyelbow.pdf

Hi tendinosis is an inflammatory response mostly in your tendons sheats while tendinitis effects the tendon themself - either way the cure is stretching and antiinflammatory medication along with proper balanced strength training. I am however not sure of what you have been aflicted with from the above explination. You could also have pseudo "compartment" syndrome. cut back on climbing - climbing only easy- strecht religiously- use antiflammatory gel and massage. i recommend you to see a physician about this good luck Björn

Can you explain how SYNOVOTIS differs? Is the synovial sheath not around the tendons? My wife has been told she has synovitis in both her ring and middle fingers on both hands. The Dr gave her 4 cortisone injections (one at base of each finger) and 2 weeks later at the follow up visit he wanted to do another round. She said no as they did not help. If that is what she has what would other treatment options be?

The synovia is the thin membrane enclosing a joint -typically a climbe would get a swelling of the jont by this membrane secreting extra joint fluid - will comonly occur as a sign of overstressing the joint - too much climbing, too hard- too little rest- this is an inflammatory reaction and cortison injections does work but if the stress is reapplied the problem is back. I usually first try cut down on hard climbing, heat/cold teraphy, antifogistic medication and Glucoseamin before  trying injections. Is there is cartilage dammage in the joint injection of Hyaleronic acid can stopp the process : it however ,as cortisone, by a physician who is really familiar with these kinds of joint injections. Best of Luck healing this Björn

Hej Dr 8a, I might be experiencing a degree of tendinosis myself. Following a slightly harder session than usual (as I tried to train indoors three times a week rather than two), I had some significant ache to both elbows for about 4 days. The ache was constant, but never really pain. Touching the elbows wouldn't increase the pain, no movement restrictions nor associated pain. I stopped icing after 2 days and tried some warm therapy, but I reverted to icing as the ache seemed to increase. It was located between the tricep and the biggest boney bit in the elbow. After a week I went climbing again without pushing my grade. Minimal discomfort while climbing, a bit of ache in the following two days but this time right elbow only. Today the ache is already gone although a few times through the day I felt like I couldn't really clinch my fists, especially the right one. Again, no pain, just some kind of laziness and lack of strength. I'm not sure what to do at the moment. I'll have almost two weeks of forced absence from climbing starting from September 19 and I'd like to know what to do by then. I thought about having a phone session with the author of the aforementioned article. He seems very knowledgeable although I'm not sure how much evidence is there to back up his quite extreme claims: braces are useless, finger tape is useless, stretching is useless. I mean, what the heck... He is very expensive, I might prefer to visit a physician in the flesh for that kind of money... Do you have any advices? Tack!

Sorry for the slack in replytime Since you seem to have an inflammation in the tricepstendon a local application of Voltaren gel as well as warming and stretching the tendon would help in healing- If you can think about cutting out climbing for up to 2 weeks you could see a sports medicine md about a diluted cortisone shot around the tendon and after 10 days start excentric strengt training and sucessively add on the climbing again Björn