Strange finger pain

Jonas Tamulionis

•

Hey, I have been climbing for almost nine years so far. One month ago I started to feel very strange pain in my forefinger (from middle knuckle to the last knuckle in the right side of the finger). I felt it in regularly time (not climbing) when I hit it somewhere, for example when I was putting my climbing shoes and using special loops on shoes heel. I felt no pain while doing pull ups on small crimps but I was unable to lock the door with key, because it was painful to turn key. I started to type my finger and continued climbing. After last competition I felt small pain in my joint. Something was wrong with it as well. I finished with climbing and took a rest. Now after three weeks of resting my joint is ok, but mysterious pain still remains. I suppose something is wrong with my second part of finger. Thank you!

4 replies

JUMP TO THE LATEST POSTS

Matthew Tschippert

•

If it is on the outside part of your finger, just below the knuckle, (I cannot tell if you are talking about the lower part of your finger or the upper part of your finger), it could be a pulley injury. Sometimes, when it is just inflamed, it may not hurt while your climbing (or you may just not notice it as much) however, you may feel it while doing mundain activities such as typing or opening a car door or even putting on a pair of gloves. Anything that may stretch out your fingers and seperate them may cause irritation. Does your finger seem swollen right where the pain is focused? Is there a bump/bruise in the area? If it doesn't seem that way visually, feel the afflicted area for any abnormalities. If that is the case, rest, ice, anti-inflamatory drugs, and avoiding crimps are the best way to go as far as getting over the injury. You may also want to tape the affected finger to its partner (Index with middle, or ring with pinkey) to give additional support. Pulley injuries take forever to heal completely, but you do not have to completely stop climbing while you have it.

Jonas Tamulionis

•

Im talking about upper part of my finger. There are no bump, bruise or swollen. Visually it seems ok. Bu it hearts just below the upper knuckle when I stretch my finger from right to left. This is that I am worried about. Actually I feel very low pain while squeezing my big joint also. But this is regularly joint injury I guess. After last climbing (three weeks ago) it was swollen and painful. But now its getting better. Thank you Matthew for your help!

Bjoern Alber

•

HiWhat you describe is most likely an injury to the kollateral ligament of the distal falanx = a small tear in the ligament that stabilizes the outhermost part of the finger from sideways movements. Tape the finger together with the adjecents one daily for at least 3 weeks and continue to do so when climbing for another 3 weeks. climb only easy for the first 3 weeks than progress slowly. best of luckBjörn

Jonas Tamulionis

•

I guess ice, heating or drugs wont help me in this case. Just rest ant typing. Good time to do more physical training :) Thank you for the fast reply doctor!