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Dr 8a

recovering small pulley injuries : how much rest?

Question for Dr 8a. Once a year, more or less, i seem to suffer some sort of pulley injury. Not necessairily something big : after a session i might notice some discomfort, then making pressure in different points of the finger i localize it, realize it must be a pulley, and decide to take some rest and maybe try some diy therapy (strapping the finger so that it can't bend too much, ice-and-warm baths, massage, diclofenac gel). Usually most of the pain goes away in 4-5 days if i'm strict on the strapping-ice-diclofenac thing : it might feel totally ok apart from the early morning (first 30 minutes awake). But if i try to climb at this point, there seems to be a 50% chance that i get back to where it started (even if i'm careful and don't crimp too much). In the end it seems that i usually try climbing too early and my recovery takes longer than it should. Is there some rule of thumb for how much rest is enough in these cases? A fixed time like one week or two weeks or three weeks? When i have no pain whatsoever even in the morning? Second question : i've heard/read some things about squeezing a foam ball. How many minutes a day? How can i empirically know when to start doing this and when it's enough? thank you
Hi depending on your healing ability and the severity of the injury a partial pulleyinjury should be "climbable" within 4 weeks, I would recomend you not to go for anything hard before that and if possible wait aanother 2 weeks befoe really hard crimping.Foamball squeezing is to improve cirkulation- takes away swelling and improves healing-allways a couple of minutes before climbing and after cooling down is good practice, when injured increase this to  3-4 times 5 minutes a day- cut down when feeling healed.best of luck