Pain in middle finger "Proximal phalanx"

Christian Novak

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Hi Björn. I have a local pain in the underside of (both middle fingers) the proximal phalanx. I hurts when i put pressure to the bone (underside) and especially if i try to pull on edges or lift anything heavy that "sizewise" would fit between the PIP-joint and the MCP(?)-joint. I have prior to this done some hard bouldering wich could have contributed, but has never bothered me like this... It's been hurting for about 10 days with no signifcant improvement despite rest and NSAID. Granted i have accidentaly put pressure on it by evereyday use such as opening doors but still... The thing that bothers me is that the pain is symmetrical (both middlefingers) Could i have a stress fracture, or maybe just an ordinary A2 pulley injury? The pain is localised to the proximal phalanx area and does not "shoot" anywhere. Any ideas? Should i tape the finger in anyway to maybe keep it straight if i would try to climb? /Christian

4 replies

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Bjoern Alber

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Hi cristianMost likely a pulley inflammation - i do not think it is a tear through. I would "twin" tape it to the adjecent finger in booth the distal and proximal phalanx -climb easy no crimpers for a couple of weeks - maybe try the Mcleod ice/heat treatment (se above in forum) best of luck Björn

Andrew Haydawg

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Heed this advise, do not climb hard. I had identical injury, though just one hand. It was only painful a hour or two after climbing, so I kept climbing hard, and then one session the finger went completely. Quite painful to squeeze the prox phalange, constant soreness. Couldn't climb for 3 weeks, it's taken another month to return to climbing mega easy routes with no pain. Lesson is learned. Better to climb easy now than loose two months. Listen to body.

Christian Novak

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Thank you both for your advice. Since everyday use of the fingers (like opening doors) hurts should i "buddytape" during the day?

Andrew Haydawg

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Man those fucking lever door handles are the worst, jabbing right into the pain. I stopped opening doors with my bad hand, guess that's not an option for you though. I also got used to doing things with every finger but the middle, just stick it straight up and flip everyone off. I tried buddy taping briefly, but it didn't really help with the level of damage I had. Perhaps should be doing it now that I am climbing easy again...