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Dr 8a

Ongoing Tendonoitis

Dr Doctor... I require some (alot) of help and advice. I have been suffering from tendonitis for the passed three months. I first injured myself at the start of November (no warm up bouldering then a gym session few days later and bam). This started off on the medial tendon (golfers) and luckily we have access to free physiotheropy from sport or work injuries here. So after three weeks I went to see her and she started an ultra sound treatment and massage twice a week. After a few weeks of no climbing, felt little better, physio gave me the go ahead for some light climbing, so trained perhaps twice over two weeks and one weekend trip away, felt fine till Wednesday and had a heavy work load (my work involves heavy workload on the arms) felt my elbow fliar up again. Back to physio to find out I now have a pretty bad case of lateral (tennis) tendonitis. Was cutting box's all day, tennis type movement, doh!. So continued my ultrasound treatment and massage theropy for a few weeks with not much change (no climbing in this time, probably about 15 routes over two sessions under 6a on slab over two+ weeks). Three more weeks on and still no change, tendon still hurting and highly inflamed. Pretty much my workload was restricting my recovery but with only one week left till Christmas I worked till then and had a four week break over the holiday period. By the 3rd week I was about 80%, no pain but felt not 100%, I could feel the inflamtion and tightness had softened, had a bit of a gym session and felt a little sore, gave it a good tiger balm rub down and came right. Waited another week for another harder session in the gym, no pain or discomfort during or after that session, went away climbing on the end of the 4th week and did a couple of easy routes and felt OK still. Then first week back at work didn't go so well,,, only worked four days, climbed a very light session on Wednesday (felt was getting better) nothing over 6a again or over hanging, took thursday off work, felt ok but starting to get worse at work (by 5pm can feel it really starting to take effect) Went away for the weekend just been climbing, tried easy 5b warm up to see how I would go and arm was not good at all... stopped climbing for the rest of the weekend. First day back at work and was in crazy pain by 5pm Monday... damit. Went to my physio this morning and now have brachialis tendonitis, was doing heavy lifting all last week as ask to change jobs to mix it up. She gave me a dose of eletro theropy (not sure of the name) and more massage. That was this morning Sorry about the long story, as you can imagine its very frustrating. My question, is there sometime we are missing? My Phsyio is a nice lady but she doesn't understand climbing so its hard for her to really know. Do you think it could be something else more serious than tendonitis? (or tendonoisis which I think is the correct term for my injury?) Sadly it might require to either quit my job (not easy to do in the current world market situation)... or to give up the idea of climbing any time in the next year :( Any advice would help, my physio is open to suggestions and treatments. (I have unlimited free physio appointments and able to get time off work and paid 80% of wages but a small risk losing that job altogether) Cheers Allan
The tendon insertion of all grip muscles are sensitive points for climbers since we tend to grip statically (holding the grip) with high power - this completedly dissrupts the bloodflow to the tendons which in turn will cause the accumulation of waste producs (eg lactic acid) - and this in turn causes inflammation. 1. cut back on all climbing 10 days - then start easy big grips and slowely progress. 2. Become a master in forearm stretching - do it well and do it often - allways before and after a climbing session. 3. Get a squeeze foam ball and work it regurlarly to improve cirkulation. 4. Get a physician to prescribe an antiinflammatory drug (eg Voltaren) - eat 3 times 50mg daily for 4 weeks. 5, Massage your arms when they are immersed in warm water a couple of times per week for minimum 10 minutes. references to how to stretch and good foamballs can be found on this forum good climbing Björn
I am no doctor, but I had some of the same issues.  After a year I am back to normal.  Number one you have quit pulling on plastic for at least 6 months, outside climbing only.  My personal understanding of tendonoitis is that is imbalance of your forearm muscles.  You need to do a lot of opposition training-  see link below http://www.nicros.com/archive/climbers_elbow.cfm http://www.nicros.com/archive/lateral_elbow.cfm http://www6.mailordercentral.com/ironmind/prodinfo.asp?number=1428 This all helps, but just remember if you keep climbing with tendonoitis inflamed you can cause more damage.  Take a little timeoff (10 days plus- personally I took a month off), and slow work back to normal, I did a lot of circuit training outside.
Thanks for the advice. I have started the squeezeball last week (have one of those dog toy rings BD make). I have already taken off 14 days off from climbing and feeling slightly better. Altho at Phsyio my tendons still felt tight from massage. I think its lock off's in my technique doing the most damage, Will try to boulder for awhile when I get back. (no over hanging stuff)