Vore kul att höra Dr8as åsikt om den disskussion som föregår just nu där Jens propagrar för krimp och hård träning för Barn och ungdom trots att det finns medicinsk data som pekar på att detta innebär ökad risk för artros och andra permanenta skador. Datan som Jens anser vara undermålig och ej bevisande är: During a discussion on the Swedish 8a site it has become clear that Mr 8a Jens Larssen
considers that the existing data not enough to prove climbing hard and
especially crimping by young climbers (kids and youth) is not causing
any increased risk for injuries.
He is therefore promoting that kids and youth should use crimps and
climb hard from the start, where there is clear medical proof that this
is increasing the risk for arthritis and injuries like this : http://bjsm.bmj.com/content/41/12/852/F2.large.jpg
Do you think that Mr8a has the right pre conditions to make these assumption?
Do you think it is right of Mr8a to risk the future of young climbers?
Who do you believe more, Mr8a or medical professionals?
The contested material published is:
http://bjsm.bmj.com/content/41/12/852.full
( http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16225880 , http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21576719 , http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1724320/pdf/v035p00181.pdf and http://libris.kb.se/bib/9977029
Tack på förhand
I have never said anything even close to what you suggest. On the contrary, I do not think kids should train hard especially crimping. I have been a junior coach for several years and nobody of the guys did get any serious injury. It is sad when people like Nisse makes such big misunderstanding. What is correct is that I am looking for more info regarding juniors and injuries. I have trained several juniors for several years and there was no serious finger injury. It would also be interested to see what IFSC think about that as they have been running international junior comps for several years and that they lately have started to promote boulder comps.
Ökad risk för skada?