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Dr 8a

Multiple finger injuries

Dear dr. 8a, I have an issue with starting multiple finger injuries that do not seem to recover. When I climb at my limit or even sublimit I tend to develop pain in my fingers pretty fast. It causes that I can only do 1 or 2 climbs at (sub)limit. Pain is mainly located in the 3 centered fingers in my left hand, pain exists when pressed on the middle and lowest digits. I even noticed a bump at the base of my left index finger (A1 pulley??). My fingers are taped and I stop early when I notice pain in order not worsen the injuries.When I decrease training intensity for two weeks, it does not seem to recover. I would like to improve my level but are limited by these dragging injuries. Very frustrating as you can imagine. When compared to other climbers performing similar training, I seem to be more prone for finger injuries. I am climbing more frequently since a year, 3 times a week (2x routes, 1x bouldering). I was pretty clear of injuries for several months and could improve my level from 5c to 6c. This spring I have done some bouldering trips and competitions. I know that pulleys and tendons need at least 2 year to adapt to the extreme forces of climbing, but do not expect this already at this level. HISTORY Last year I have ruptured (not acute) my A2 pulley in my left middle finger. This recovered by resting 2 weeks and gradually increasing training. After 3 months I was recovered and could use it almost for full 100%. I still tape my finger and I developed a bump on my pulley. Furthermore I am using anti-histamines from May 2012 for another condition. I think that since that moment my recovery is taking more time. Is this possible? I have not found supportive literature for the role of histamines in pulley ruptures. My goal is to improve my level, but I have to be free of injuries first. Thanks in advance for taking this case in consideration and I am looking forward for suggestions. Kind regards, Ron