Wednesday, 5 August

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Dr 8a

Minor Rotator Cuff Tear

Dan Nelson
Hi all, I've secured myself a minor rotator cuff tear doing a hard gaston move on a boulder problem.  I'm seeing a good sports therapist and I'm following their advice to not over work it right now and focus on light theraband stretches. I can see I need to keep following this advice - recover and build strength slowly over a period of weeks and see how it goes before starting light climbing again.  My question is - when eventually I do start climbing again - are there any specific programs/techniques that people know of in terms of climbing training that are recommended to hasten recovery to allow me to climb strong quicker?  Would people recommend finger boarding for example as a way of quickly building back form or is that something that should be completely avoided etc etc? Any advice/tips would be appreciated, cheers.