Middlefinger pain

Sebastian Kinberger

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Hey I climbed a route where the crux is a block from a mono for middle finger of the left hand. I did this move several times. Now (2 days later) i have pain in my middlefinger, i.e. 1.) I can´t really make a fist with my hand, I feel some sort of resistance on the last 3-4 centimeters. 2.) if I make a fist i feel a pain, starting from the middlefinger down my forearm, it stops approximately 15 cm before my ellbow 3.) crimping doesn´t hurt at all. 4.) holding a onefinger hole/crimp with hanging fingers with the middlefinger hurts really bad. 5.) the finger feels somehow stiff and swollen even you cant really see something 6.) the finger somehow doesn´t really respond perfectly to my orders... What could be the problem? Thx

5 replies

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PEDRO IZQUIERDO DE MIGUEL

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did you feel pain during the climb? or the pain apear after climbing? it could be a lot of diferets things.. Can you climb normally taking sloppers, or big holds? My recomendation, go to a pysical terapist!!!

Sebastian Kinberger

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I didn´t go climbing since then. Well the pain was there before climbing and after climbing, but not really appeared suddenly... I´ll check a doctor if it´s not better tomorrow... anyone had the some pain after pulling a mono?

Tomasz Wojtkowiak

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I had the exact same problem happen to me. I experienced everything that you described. After the pain came, i stopped climbing for one day then did some light climbing every second day after. The pain went away in about 1 week but the stiffness took about 2 weeks to get rid of. It is probably a tendon strain, that way tendons heal is by applying small amounts of stress on it, so fully resting is not the best idea. You should be back to normal in no more then 2 weeks. Going to a doctor is still a good idea, they will probably know what to really do in that situation. Good luck!

PEDRO IZQUIERDO DE MIGUEL

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Almost sure a it was a tendon strain. for the next people that could read this I´m going to white some advices (works for me)for finger tendom strain . 1- Rest minimun one week of climbing, you can move weights o or do pull ups if there is not pain. 2- three fisrts days: ice 3 times at day 10 minutes and strech your forearms. 3- the next 4 days...push a soft ball 3 times a day 10 minutes, usually strech your forearms and in the night: a) 5 minutes of dry hot, not to much. b) massage the strain part of your finger wiht sorts moves (push with a finger) . Star soft and go harder and harder, of course use some cream to lubrycate, I recomend "Traumel" (all natural stuff , wiht a lot of Arnica montana, very good for every pain or injure, and smells really good) for about 15 minutes. c)Then relax your finger and hand and move the middle knuckel with the other hand ..soft and finish hard. d)Then pull your injured finger with the other hand, use a towel or something because is going to be lubricates and you won´t be able to pull..3 times 30 secons is ok. e)then finish the sesion with 3 minutes dry hot, 5 ice,3 hot, 5 ice and 3 hot.... good luck PD: In spanish it would be easier to write and easier to undertand...

PEDRO IZQUIERDO DE MIGUEL

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