Middle and Ring fingers bad sprain??

Catherine Scott

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Hi Dr 8a, and anyone with advice I was trying an overhanging boulder problem and pulling hard (mostly with my middle and ring finger) on a weird gaston-like/sideways crimp sicklemoon shaped hold. I felt a sudden very sharp pain shooting from my middle and ring fingers up my forearm.  I immediately stopped climbing, and iced my hand. I plan on resting a couple of weeks, but am not sure of the severity of the injury or if there is anything else I can do to speed up the recovery process? (I have a 5 month climbing trip planned...starting in July!) I feel pain when straightening my fingers, I cant make a fist, and it hurts if I press my hand, particularly where those fingers join the palm.  Very basic everyday actions also hurt. Any help/advice would be appreciated! Thanks, Catherine

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Idar Ose

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Might be a tendon injury, as the pain goes up the forearm. Classic recovery methods:First days: Ice, total rest. 3-6 days depending on injury.As pain goes away: Start to regain mobility. Start by flexing and extend finger until full painfree range of motion.3-6 days ? Then start resistance traning to make the tendons heal. Slight pain is ok here. You can start climbing, but the climbing should be without any pain. More on the subject here: http://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/ I usually recover in better shape after a recovery period.. ;) As all the easy climbing with gradually increase in intensity gets you into shape. Good luck.

Catherine Scott

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Thanks so much Idar. Its been a week now since it happened. Middle finger seems mostly painfree but the ringfinger is still sore, especially up the forearm... Should i start resistance training now or wait until the pain is gone. Also, what sort of resistance training should i do? putty? a ball?

Bjoern Alber

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HiThis is a typical muscle sprain- you need to rest from hard climbing as well as to stretch religiously otherwise the sprain will heal "short" and you will have recurrent pain and stiffness. Use rubber bakk squeezing several times per day and start up resistance training slowely after 3 weeks Björn