Well so I've got it, i guess.. :S And my question is: Can i do do light endurance climbing with low intensity as long as it doesn't cause any pain or should i avoid climbing at all? Will easy painless climbing speed up or slow down recovery ? I try not to use NSAID or painkillers before to secure painless climbing , not masking pain..
Hey Ive had it for about two years now and you are on the right track, Management is the best way to get on with your climbing. What I have found the best for me was to only climb when my elbows were feeling good (soft and not stiff). If they were stiff Id just rest a few more days. I never went over the top with training, well I actually stopped training and just had fun climbing (no hang boards or laps or intense bouldering, just trying different climbs etc) I also did the weight exrcises for two years without fail, every day. I think the key is to keep climbing, but keep it real, dont go over the top and dont give up! I have gone from intense weeks of pain and annoyance to being able to climb my hardest for five days straight while on holiday with two weeks rest afterwards.
I have had this and also got rid of it too. Painless climbing is fine as long as it is not painful after the exercise. Try doing some forarm rolling (holding a hammer and rolling it from left to right). When you can do this use a dumb-bell with weights on one end.
Hi Keep on climbing - but very easy- stretch religiously !- at least 4 times per day for 15 sec, always before and after climbing- dumbell rolls -slow and with high reps (>15) twice aweek - accentyate the negative (loering part ) of the movement , if this doesnt help you will have to cut out climbing and take a short period of taking an antiinflammatory drug - you might try TNS- muscle stimulation locally - it will speed up healing.Take this seriousy as a cronic inflammation is hard to get rid ofbest of luck Bjรถrn
Tnx for answers ..:) I'm 95 - 97% ok now. Here is what i did:2 weeks more or less completely off. Had some really light sessions but nothing serious. I shifted from bouldering at my limit to 15 minutes intervals on the vertical wall always keeping out of pain. Just before x-mas I progressed to slightly harder routes. After x-mas I started strength training on my new system wall and I'm now stronger than ever I guess. I still keep away from hard bouldering as I guess it stresses the tendons more than controlled strength traning. So in the end i probably come out stronger and better than before the injury. I do my streches at least 4 times a day. And I did a lot of resistance training , where I always pushed towards the painlimit- but not crossing it. I also did the nerve-glide exercise. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjdmXp9w-xs I don't know what part helped the most, might be the combination.
Medial epicondylitis