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Dr 8a

Left Wrist Pain After Unloading on Difficult Holds

I've asked friends if this is normal, and very few had ever felt what I had. I have a pain in my wrist, not near muscle particularly, more near bone but possibly tendon, when I do campus moves or moves to small holds and slip/rip off them. If I slowly release from a hold (say I'm training on a hangboard and I stand on my foot and slowly release pressure, or similar for a campus board) the pain is less, but when I unload the pressure quickly, just in this arm, the pain is terrible. Is this normal? Is this just from tendons unloading quickly and springing back into normal condition?
Hi You most likely have an irritation of the cartilage in the carpoulnar or carporadial joint (the joint surfaces between the arm bones and the hand proper.you need to stabelize the muscular action of the flexors and extensors of the wrist.  Avoid challenging the joint for a couple of weeks = easier climbing-you might consider taking a drug like Voltaren for 10 days- after that do wrist curls and reverse  wrist curls§ ( ask any gym rat)  twice a wek for 12-15 repetitions with as high weight as you can handle and this problem will be resolved Best of luck björn