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Dr 8a

Hypermobile Joints/elbows

Hi! I have been climbing for a while now - around two years. Lately i have gotten more and more pains in my elbows. They get worse when i do writing and alot of computer work too. And they also get really bad when i do crimping. Open hand climbing is somewhat better is seems. The pains are located on the outer side of the forearm, on the "tricep" side of the joint. It is worse in my right hand. I am also aware that i have quite hypermobile joints - so i wonder if this has something to do with the pains im experiencing? I have tried resting for weeks, but with little effect - it actually seems it gets better when i do really easy climbing. But the instant i do a little harder stuff, it gets bad again. what do i do? Is there any excersises, stretching, miracle cures or anything i can try do build up my joints so they get strong and let me climb with them? I eat omega-3 and vitamins for the gold medal by the way.. Thanks for any help.
Hi This sound more like a problem of "lateral epicondylitis" that is an inflammation of the origin of the extensormuscles of the forearm. It could be agevated by a laxity in the elbow joint. The first meassure would be to thorughly stetch the extensors (use the oriental waiter position -arm at your side flex your wrist ,palms upwards, - force this extension by grabbing the hand with the other -complicated -look at the picture. Train your elbow flexors/extensors and rotators - take a lok in Eric Horst exellent book " training for climbing", use an antiimflammatory drug eg Voltaren, for 3 weeks and continue climbing but vertical and big holds, keep the elbow warm (neoprene elbow cuffs) Follow this regiment for 3 weeks and your elbows should be working Good climbing Björn