Healing tennis-elbow injury

I agree that exercising the antagonistic muscles in the forearm  is one of the most important aspects in rehabilitating and preventing injury. As with all other tendinitis problem it is equally important to stretch the inflammed tendons on a regular basis - 15 seconds per stretch at least 4 times per day. In my professionell opinion this is often the fulcrum that will lead to a permanent healing. The reason for this is that a complete stretch will alow for a higher bloodflow up to an hour after the stretch - which in turn will benefit healing. Using a myostimulator is also benificial in this process. Another strengtening exercise to add to your inventory is to take a piece of a broom handle (or kayak paddle handle etc.) secure a piece of thin rope to the peice and a weight in the end of the rope. grabb the handle palms down and work the weight up the rope by booth a downward and then by an upward flick of the wrist. With tennis elbow problems you concentrate on the uppward motion of the wrist and with golfers elbow (inside of elbow) on the dornward motion. As with all weight training progress uppwards in weight and avoid lactid acid acumulation. carpe diem Björn Alber/dr8a

Thanks to both of you for sharing information and professionnal experience. I have been suffering from a tennis elbow injury for the past 4 months. The injury occured suddenly on a day when I got to the crag with little time and a strong determination to redpoint a project ... Warming up therefore was for once neglected (my mistake, I normally pay attention to this ...), my project was sent but I came down the route with this injury. I have done some mesotherapy which seemed to have made things better, gave it a full one month rest, but the pain does not seem to disappear completely. It is still present on some movement (everyday life), not so much when I climb (I strap my wrist and elbow and try to pay attention to pain), but I am frightened that increasing the intensity of my climbing sessions might only worsened things again. Lately I started doing some physiotherapy (mostly massage and stretching), and I am doing stretching exercises many times a day. From your professional experience, what is your opinion on pursuing climbing activity when faced with this type of injury ? Also I have been focusing on stretching the flexor muscles, but from the article it seems more important to stretch the extensor muscles in case of tennis elbow injury. Is it correct ? I will definitely try that as well as the strengthening exercises  ... Björn, I do not fully understand the exercise you recommend (sorry about that), please could you describe that again for me ? Thanks again Bertrand

Hi Bertrand Easy climbing  ( big holds - no crimpers or pinches) while taking the steps outlined above should be the best strategy - to completly quit will not help eccept in the acute (worst/early) phase. I will try to take a couple of pictures of the recommended exercise and post it here asap. Carpe diem Björn