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Dr 8a

Forearm inflamation

Hi there I will start off by saying that in the last couple of months i have been frequently training my fingers on my finger board, in particular the back 2 (Little and ring finger). In the last 2weeks I have been experiencing a dull inflamed pain in my forearm, running up the ulnar side, most intensely felt in the middle of my forearm. The pain is felt when closing my fist and not when opening my hand. This pain is felt mostly between climbing attempts and an hour or two after climbing. After this stage my forearm feels fine. I was wondering if this is a common problem and how long you reccomend to take off from climbing? Help much appreciated.
I would suggest one week of no climbing, or only very, very easy climbing. Then, take a day to warm up very well, and see how it feels on some moderately hard climbs for you. If you can climb with no pain, you are probably good. If you still feel tweaky, probably try another week of rest, stretching, and active rest.
Hiyou clearly got an overuse triggered inflammation- cut back fully for 10 days - take Glukoseamine and maybee a short bout of Voltaren (or eqivalent),- stretch intensively and start squezing a foam ball a minute several times per day to improve circulation - as you start climbing again take slow steeps going up to full power again- remember that performance is built on-training-rest at nurishment- take away one and just grow weaker or injure yourself Good luck Björn