Flexor Unit Strain

Alasdair Fulton

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Hi, I strained the flexor unit in the ring finger on my left hand last December. I treated it with the usual: Rest for a about a month followed by gentle stretching and a slow return to climbing.(my physio classed it a grade 1 strain) Since then, it's been a slightly nagging injury that has never been too problematic, but I do notice it once in a while. I had some time off recently, as I twisted my knee snowboarding (strained MCL) and have just been getting back into climbing. Yesterday I was hanging a 1st joint rail open handed and noticed a slight tweak again but this time it's more the tendon than the whole unit (the tweak was felt about 15cm up from my wrist which I'd guess is the tendon insertion?). This morning it is a little tender but nothing serious....what's the best plan? How much rest do you think I'll need? I've noticed there's not much research about "flexor unit strain", where you get pain all the way up the tendon and right through the muscle; from about the wrist all the way to the elbow. Have you heard much about this? The only referenc I have found is here: http://www.climbing.com.au/science/injuries.pdf but it doesn't shed much light on the matter. Anyway, cheers in advance.

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Bjoern Alber

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Hi This is more common ground as these injuries are common in other spots A muscule-tendon strain tend to take around 8 weeks to heal satisfactory. active rest that is easy climbing- not overhanging big grips and foam ball pumping will along with stretching and a good dose of NSAID (eg Voltaren) get you there faster in better shape. Using a good muscle stimulator (Cefar or similar) will proably get you a little more leverage Best of luck Björn

Alasdair Fulton

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Hi, I hadn't thought about looking up muscle/tendon strains in general.....pretty obvious really! It's now 4 days since I strained it, first day was a little tender around 15cm from my wrist. I didn't do much that day. Day 2 I did some gentle stretching and clenched-fist wrist rotations and I could just notice the tendon. Day 3 felt better still, could stretch resonably firmly (about 1/2 - 2/3rds of normal stretch pressure) with no pain. Day 4 - today - can stretch at about 2/3rds pressure, can crimp my other hand fairly firmly. Can just notice the tendon (not really pain, just a sensation) if I push it too far. How many days full rest do you think before active rest? Thanks for the help!

Alasdair Fulton

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Bjoern Alber

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Hi I would guess that 10-14 days of totall rest followed by 2-3 weeks with active rest would do the tric